# Best way to have an ale ready in 3-4 weeks.

**URL:** <https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475>\
**Category:** General Homebrew Discussion\
**Created:** [November 24, 2011, 6:01pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475 "2011-11-24T18:01:56Z")\
**Posts on this page:** 9\
**Page:** 1

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**Author:** ![edvinjonsson](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/edvinjonsson/32/7313_2.png) [@edvinjonsson](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/edvinjonsson)\
**Post date:** [November 24, 2011, 6:01pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/1 "2011-11-24T18:01:56Z")

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Hi, I wanna make a batch of beer this saturday (haven’t decided on the style yet, probably a brown ale or a porter), and I want to have it ready for christmas dinner, so I have about 4 weeks. It has to be bottle conditioned since I don’t have a keg. I always bottle condition for at least 3 weeks, I’ve tried the beer after two weeks, but its always better carbonated and tastes better a week after. I always do primary and secondary fermentation for a total of 2 weeks, so thats 5 weeks. What would be the best way to make it in four? Any suggestions?&nbsp; ???

Cheers!&nbsp; ;D

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**Author:** ![firedog23](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/firedog23/32/691_2.png) [@firedog23](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/firedog23)\
**Post date:** [November 24, 2011, 6:08pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/2 "2011-11-24T18:08:36Z")

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Getting rid of secondary would help unless you are using it for a specific reason.

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**Author:** ![edvinjonsson](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/edvinjonsson/32/7313_2.png) [@edvinjonsson](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/edvinjonsson)\
**Post date:** [November 24, 2011, 6:38pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/3 "2011-11-24T18:38:59Z")

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Nah, I guess I can get away without it. I’ve only been homebrewing for about 4 or 5 months so I’m still learning a lot.

Thanks!

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**Author:** ![morticaixavier](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/eb9ed0/32.png) [@morticaixavier](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/morticaixavier)\
**Post date:** [November 24, 2011, 7:40pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/4 "2011-11-24T19:40:34Z")

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aim for a modest gravity, say 1.040 max, give it enough yeast, which for this might be just one packet but a starter wouldn’t hurt. keep the temp stable around the mid to high 60’s shake the wort well to aerate.&nbsp; you should be fine with 1 week in primary.

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**Author:** ![theantipunk](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/theantipunk/32/6822_2.png) [@theantipunk](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/theantipunk)\
**Post date:** [November 24, 2011, 7:45pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/5 "2011-11-24T19:45:56Z")

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I usually ferment my mid-range ales (1.040-1.060) for 10 days to 2 weeks, and bottle condition for 2 weeks.&nbsp; If you need to speed up carbonation, store the bottles at a slightly higher temp… i do about 72-75\* for this.

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**Author:** ![timberati](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/timberati/32/13230_2.png) [@timberati](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/timberati)\
**Post date:** [November 24, 2011, 7:46pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/6 "2011-11-24T19:46:12Z")

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Here’s a thread from when Weaze announced he was planning a “6 day IPA.” A starter yeast was recommended, but if you’re just getting started that could be too big a step.  
[http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=7434.0](http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=7434.0)

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**Author:** ![edvinjonsson](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/edvinjonsson/32/7313_2.png) [@edvinjonsson](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/edvinjonsson)\
**Post date:** [November 25, 2011, 7:49pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/7 "2011-11-25T19:49:55Z")

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Thanks a lot for the tips, I hope I can have it ready by christmas to share with my family.

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**Author:** ![a10t2](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/a10t2/32/6257_2.png) [@a10t2](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/a10t2)\
**Post date:** [November 25, 2011, 8:10pm UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/8 "2011-11-25T20:10:21Z")

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Four weeks is a VERY long timeline for an ale. If you pitch a standard amount of yeast, an average-gravity ale should reach FG in 3-6 days. Bottle three days after that and it should be carbonated well ahead of time. You’ll probably even have a week or two left for cold conditioning to drop it bright. If your bottles aren’t carbonated after 7-10 days, you’re probably storing them at too low a temperature. 75°F or so is ideal.

Using one plastic bottle per batch will let you know when the beers have carbonated, without having to open them.

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**Author:** ![euge](https://sea1.discourse-cdn.com/brewersassociation/user_avatar/forum.homebrewersassociation.org/euge/32/5060_2.png) [@euge](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/u/euge)\
**Post date:** [November 26, 2011, 1:56am UTC](https://forum.homebrewersassociation.org/t/best-way-to-have-an-ale-ready-in-3-4-weeks/8475/9 "2011-11-26T01:56:38Z")

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Use a yeast with high flocculation characteristics so it drops bright even sooner. You can certainly get by with bottling after a week, and truly my bottles are always carbed up after three days at 75. The rest is just conditioning.

You have plenty of time, but start now!
