Carbonation lid for corny

Just ordered this:

Carbonation Keg Lid,Ferroday Stainless Steel Carbonation lid With 0.5 Micron Diffusion Air Stone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M335AXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GEerAbAPK8X48

It’s an idea I’ve long had and (living under a rock?) I just found out they really exist.  Anyone have experience with such a thing?  Pros, cons, comments?  (Seems a lot more, shall we say, elegant than the Quick Carb from Blichman Overengineering.)

I’m not an adherent to the whole “quick carb” idea. Honestly, If I need beer asap there is a party store on the corner. Even the beers meant to be served mild are conditioned long enough to carbonate at serving pressure. To me this is a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist.

I should clarify. I’ve always been a crank-and-shake guy, but parts of me are getting a bit old for shaking kegs.  I’ve put a stone on a tube on the gas in, but discovered that it causes gas breakout in the keg when dispensing (by the end all your hop resins are in dried foam on the sides of the keg) hence my interest in having a third post.  I’m just wondering if anyone has tried this particular product and has found out anything I need to know.

I figure normal force carbing is much faster than waiting for bottles to naturally carbonate, so thats my rush job. I wouldn’t fast ferment so why rush it. Skip the stone and be slightly more patient

You are going to love it. I made one out of some spare parts last year and it works great. Also, don’t worry about the “quick carb” naysayers. There is absolutely nothing wrong with carbbing your beer quickly. It doesn’t change anything except for how long you have to wait to drink your beer!

Thanks.  I wanted to make one but couldn’t figure out a good way to drill a lid and fit a post.  I was just worried whether the stone might be prone to blowing off the hose or something.
I’m not interested in “slow carbing” because to my mind, when the beer is done fermenting and lagering, and is transferred off the yeast, it’s ready to drink–no longer ageing, just getting old.

Yeah, when the beer is ready to drink it is ready to be carbbed. There is no benefit to “slow carbbing” unless it is simply to exercise patience .

Or you can spund and the beer will be carbed, when it is finished fermenting, hows that for fast?. Without any added oxidation to boot!  :wink:

If you already have a pump you can build your own quick carb cheap.

Check out this video: https://youtu.be/OxLazijjgpU

PS. I knew this video was legit when I saw that beer belly poking out from behind that glaring white t-shirt.

  • formerly alestateyall.

How much time are you really saving? My guess is not much. Besides, it’s just another thing to clean and sanitize.

Rob:

When I worked at Hoppin’ Frog, we carbonated 10 barrels of beer in the brite tank in an hour or two, using a stone at the bottom of the tank.  So your new piece of equipment should work just fine.

Been using the carbonation lids now since January (~20 batches.)  Will never use another method.  A stone is indeed another thing to clean, but just one little thing.  Fill keg, set in keezer and put gas on carbonation post at serving pressure and temperature overnight.  Move gas to regular in post.  Done.  Don’t bother with an overcomplicated  Quick Carb.  Don’t guess at burst or crank and shake methods. Don’t wait for beer to carb while it’s otherwise ready for drinking. There are numerous manufacturers of these things.

Spunding was always a guessing game for me as well …and I never quite got it. I either transferred to the spund Keg too soon (overcarbonating) or too late (undercarbing). Hence the desire for more control.

Oxygen uptake is always a concern. If I close transfer into a properly purged keg, purge a carbonation apparatus with CO2 (regardless of a keg lid or inline design) I figure I should be good.

I like this attitude:

Moving beer (especially still) always has oxygen pickup, hell even leaving it sit in the fermenter does. But, If you are fine with that, I am too.

How does spunding too early leave you overcarbed?  Doesn’t the pressure relief setting take care of that problem?

You’d think, but evidently not in my valve’s case. (Most likely operator error)

Reviving old thread…

So I read the directions that came with my product… there were none but there were some online. According to what I understand here, I can just put it at serving pressure and disconnect in the morning and be ok?

I did the whole 2psi, 4psi, 6psi thing the first time but don’t really want to deal with that now… But also want to try this beer tomorrow and not have it insanely overcarbonated… Like the last time when I was trying to get a beer ready for a club competition and I connected and shook… But it was nothing but foam pouring…

This will be my 3rd beer with it. Just transferred and it’s connected at serving temp…

Provided you have the regulator set to the proper psi for the temp and your desired volumes of CO2, it won’t overcarb. You don’t have to disconnect it at all until the keg kicks. Those carb stones don’t make more CO2 dissolve over and above what the regulator is set to, they just speed up the time it takes for the CO2 to dissolve into solution.

Honestly that is good info. It is a pain to pull kegs and reconnect in my kegerator (commercially bought not homemade like my last) so if I can just leave it in place, that makes my life easier [emoji16][emoji482]