I just set the temp on my chest freezer to 32-34F and come back a few days later to keg the beer.
Some folks drop the temp slower, a few degrees per day.
You should replace the airlock with a plug (I use a non-drilled carboy bung) to stop liquid in the airlock from being sucked into the fermenter during cooling.
I don’t know the answer about special considerations for conical fermenters.
That’s what I have as well 7 gallon. I will just be doing 5 gallon batches once I get up and rolling. Do you change to a solid bung in the airlock before cold crashing?
I used to crash in the fermenter with an airlock but have switched to crashing in the keg under pressure. Although I noticed the suck back into the fermenter, I never noticed any oxidation on my beers. My theory was always that the CO2 in the fermenter provided a blanket over the beer, keeping the air from being an issue. Regardless, by crashing in keg under pressure I have no worries. 30-32F for 2 or 3 days.
I don’t understand, I thought the purpose of cold crashing was to get all the yeast and other particles to settle to the bottmom to clear up the beer. By putting it in a keg and cold crashing wouldn’t that draw straight from the bottom and defeat the purpose?
I give most beer styles long enough in the fermenter to sediment the vast majority of yeast/trub. What’s left to sediment in most cases is only a tiny layer of yeast which is drawn out in the first pint or less. I just like limiting O2 exposure any way possible, and I can start carbing as I do this as well. Lots of ways to do things is the theme here.