DMM help please

What am I doing wrong?

I got out my DMM to trouble shoot something, but I’m getting odd readings.  I’m trying to measure the DC output of a 22.5V DC converter, so I set the DMM to read DC voltage and put the probes on the output (inside is positive for this one) and the reading doesn’t change from the 30-60mv it reads when not connected to anything (it fluctuates).

So maybe the converter is bad, right?

Well, just as a sanity check I switched it to AC volts and checked the outlet.  It goes from something under 5 mv (again fluctuating) when not connected to anything, right up to 365 mv when I stick the probes directly into an outlet, one in each of the straight slots.

So what’s the deal?  Bad DMM?  User error?  I’ve used this thing intermittently over the years so I sometimes forget what I’m doing, and I’m not the most electrically inclined person.  But I don’t remember having this kind of problem in the past.

Tom, most DMMs have an internal fuse to protect them…perhaps that has blown. (it is not a fuse for the entire unit, which is why you’ll still have a display)
Or, one of your probes has developed an “open,” i.e. the wire inside has broken. Try this (if you haven’t already): set the DMM to read ohms and touch the two probe ends together…you should read 0.000 ohms.

Without looking at the meter, it almost sounds to me as if you have the probes in the wrong place. When it says “oupput”, are you sure that’s not for checking ohm’s and continuity? In other words
Outputting voltage" to get a resistance reading? That’s sure what it sounds like.

weazletoe has a good point; most meters use a separate input to measure amps…I’ve made the mistake of having the probes in the wrong inputs a few times over a 25 year career in medical electronics!! ;D

Nope, they’re not in the wrong inputs.  There’s 2 red ones, one for amps, and one for everything else and up to 400 mA.

Anyway, thanks kernal, I’m pretty sure it’s the fuse.  I did the ohm test and it reads O.F, so I pulled the probes and just stuck a wire into each of the inputs and it still reads O.F.  Sounds like it’s the fuse to me, but it is opaque (ceramic).  I guess my project will be on hold until I can get another fuse.

Thanks again for the help guys.

Further proof - I took the fuse out entirely and it behaves as before :slight_smile:

Looks like a trip to radio shack is in order . . .

Ceramic fuses are annoying…you can only confirm good or bad by using an ohmmeter…and in your case that’s a true catch-22!

Anyway, good luck…hope that sorts it out.

Err, just stick a penny in it  :stuck_out_tongue:

Yeah, can’t use my ohmmeter to check the resistance of the fuse from the ohmmeter :slight_smile:

;D  I would, but it won’t fit back together with a penny jammed in there.  Maybe half a penny . . .

I need to go get other fuses anyway, I blew a few in the Christmas lights before I found where the junction was getting wet.

Uh…is there a battery inside? It may be gonzo…

Good idea, but that was the first thing I tried. :slight_smile:

A half penny? They have those in Englad, right?
Better book a flight to get one…while you’re there you may want to do a pub crawl and sample cask ales.

A new DMM would be cheaper, but not nearly as much fun!  I replaced the fuse last night though, and it works as expected now.  Thanks!

Fantastic! ;D Glad I was able to help.

IIRC, the batteries are only used to measure resistance.

And maybe to power the display?  Just a guess :wink:

Tom…Denny’s been around awhile…he’s remembering the classic “Simpson” multimeter and others like it. They can measure voltage/amperage without any power at all as they use an analog meter; but they need a battery to measure resistance.
As for me I’m “only” 48, but I work in the electronics industry, so I’m familiar with them – in a nostalgic way.  ;D

Uh, yeah, that too…I’m living in the past!   :wink:

Keep in mind that the “D” in DMM stands for digital. ;D

I thought it was “Denny’s Multi Meter”!  Mine is steam powered.  :wink: