Here’s my predicament: I only have access to 120V power in my apartment. I do have access to a new gas stove that I will boil and heat water on which justifies the 5 gallon batch sizes. I’ll utilize the element to support recirculating mash temps.
I’m brewing with a 10 gallon kettle and 10 gallon MLT.
I want to future-proof my build so that I can easily convert to 240V when I’m at a new place. I’m think about using one 5500W element (at 1/4 power) running it at 120V now and building my control panel equipped to handle the switch to 240V in the future. I’m no electrician and have almost zero experience in wiring so I need some wisdom.
My question is, what do I need to change from jkarp’s original build (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=131411) in order to run it at 120V while building all components in the panel so that it’s easy to switch to 240v? I’ve searched a ton of these threads and haven’t found a solution yet, maybe I’m missing something obvious?
Another dumb question, if I built a 240V control panel could one easily run it at 120V?
Many of the parts will be usable in both builds, but the wiring will be different. I’d just build it to be usable now, and adjust later. Elements are cheap enough that I would buy one built for 110 and switch later.
Thanks for the response! I’m trying to make it easiest to switch to 240V later, I’ll consult an electrician to see what I need to do. Running a 5500W element on 120V would produce 1375W and would achieve a goal for future upgrading. Appreciate your input!
If you do the above, you need to ensure both elements are on separate circuits. If your are brewing in the kitchen, that may mean running a power cable out to another room. If your kitchen has been updated, you may have multiple circuits. For example, my kitchen has six circuits. Fridge, dishwasher, disposal, microwave and two counter top circuits. All 20amp
Well, it’s over a year later, so I’m not sure if you built it Dropabeet.
If not, the way you’d want to do this is to wire your controller for 240V power, and add a contactor/mechanical relay that allows current to “come in” on L1 and to complete the circuit on neutral when switched to 120V mode, but current will “come in” on L1 and to complete the circuit on L2 when switched to 240V mode. So you’ve effectively got a dual-voltage controller.
As far as plugs go, the box should be set up for a standard 240V male plug, but make a pigtail that has a 240V female end and a 120V male plug for when you’re using it in 120V mode.
