The Tubercle has been all grain brewing for 25+ years. There were about 3 extract kit brews in the begining and then to all grain. Tubercle never got to experience the apprehension of making the “leap” and going through all the styles with extract. I always figured if the Sumerians could do it, I was at least that smart.
Lately, for some unknown reason, LME has been on the mind. Me thinks its time to give it a shot. As good as grain can be, I believe with all the experience brewing with such and knowlege gained, the extract can be taken to another level. That’s how I will roll in 2012.
Kind of like the progression in hunting; 30-'06 - hand gun - black powder long gun - black powder hand gun - bow (or bluefoxicy’s sword).
Not that I’m bored of brewing by any means, just seeing it as a challenge. It might give me better insight into some of these head-scratching post by the extract brewers.
Hell Fire! I might even become paraniod about sanitizing.
Let me be the first second to respond to this post.
This is not meant to be a dig or anything about extract brewing or the brother brewers who do it. It’s just as I stated, I just don’t have any experience in this area and want more insight of the trials and tribulations.
I just have always done everything from scratch; brewing, cooking, preserving food, etc…just the way I was brought up.
Thank you for the opportunity to make that clear that up before I get all busted up.
Brings back memories of the early 90s. Boiling on the stove, a couple massive boilovers and that great lingering smell of malt and hops that my better half disliked. Wife was very happy when I moved out of the kitchen.
I’ve actually brewed several extract batches in the last year to develop/test versions of my recipes for Northern Brewer kits. The new rye LME that Briess is making was a real eye opener…very good stuff.
I recently purchased some LME from Northern Brewer to supplement a 1.120 GU beer. My recommendation is to buy it from a reputable source that moves it quickly. I know that NB buys it by the 55gal drum and moves it pretty fast which is indicates fresher product.
Interesting idea, Tubercle. I did about 4 extract batches, then on to partial mash for a couple batches, then 3 gallon all grain batches (all on the stove to this point) then moved out of the kitchen to 5 gallon all grain batches for a couple years, now I’m back to 3 gallon all grain batches on the stove. I like being inside where it’s not too freakin’ hot or cold, windy, buggy, muggy, dark, bright, snowy, rainy, etc. It’s made brewing so much less stressful and more about the process and relaxing. I may have to try some extract batches again, I am going to be assisting a friend who is going to be doing his first batch in the next week or so. So I’m trying to think of how I’m going to help since I haven’t brewed extract in 3 years. But I think I got it.
I’ve been brewing a lot with extract lately. Tubercle there aren’t any trials and tribulations with extract.
Make sure you buy fresh extract if liquid and remember that DME ferments out a bit more than LME.
And concentrated boils give some good results and the hop utilization isn’t impacted enough to not do it this way. Probably not the way to do a CAP though. That being said a full boil is how I usually do it so the IC is submerged more and I can chill it faster.
No negative connotations with using extract. After all this is homebrewing. ;D
Fermenting for a different finished product (one we’re not allowed to discuss here) has taught me much about that. I get a lot of amusement from all of the detailed paranoid things people do to sanitize. They’d be paranoid brewing in an OR.
I’ve wondered about that. Sour mash. ;D A bit of starsan at key points and everything is cool when it comes to the homebrewing. Sanitization is nothing to get too fanatical about- the only thing that makes me paranoid is iodophor.
I use iodophor to sanitize stainless. Otherwise I use bleach.
My “brewery” water is rainwater that has been filtered and disinfected with ultraviolet light. I use one of these to supply disinfected water to the whole building:
Yes it is very possible to supplliment your water supply with rainwater. google rainwater harvesting.
A description:
Rainwater is collected on my roof and directed to a 20,000 gal storage tank via gutters and 4” PVC.
Water is drawn from the tank by a 3/4 hp pump connected to a 40 gal bladder-type pressure tank.
Pump on at 40 psi – off at 60 psi.
The water is pushed through two standard 2.5” x 9” filters in series. The upstream filter is 30 microns in porosity, the downstream is 5 microns.
The water exits the filters and enters the UV disinfection system.
The water exits the UV system and enters the household plumbing.
At the sinks where water is drawn for consumption I have under-counter 2.5” x 9” GAC filters at 1 micron porosity.
The water leaves these filters, passes through small 8” UV systems and is delivered to the sink via a “gooseneck” faucet.
UV disinfection is highly effective. However the water needs to be very low in turbidity. Turbidity is caused by suspended solids. Suspended solids provide a possible place for bacteria and viruses to hide out from the UV light.
The 5 micron filter serves two functions: removal of turbidity, and removal of oocysts from disease causing cystic protozoa like giardia and cryptosporidium. The oocysts are UV resistant, but large enough to be easily filtered out.
The GAC filter for water to be consumed gets rid of any flavors or aromas.
Having safe, chlorine-free, disinfected water coming from every tap in the house is really nice. I know when I rinse after disinfecting my brewing equipment that the water is not re-contaminating the equipment.
just to be extra sure