Has anybody used one of these?

It looks to me like it would be too low to the ground to rack from it to a keg or to bottle from it.

I’ve not, but seems like someone was saying the flat lids are problematic.

  1. Can you not get extension legs?

  2. Can it be pressurized to allow for racking at that height?

I had not seen a flat lid on a Blichmann, but on the web site it looks like that is the 7 gallon one.

The 14.5 I have works very well. Had it on a makeshift platform for years, but used a discount to buy leg extensions and casters, now I can go wherever, out of the way. It can take up to 3 PSI, so that would push the beer up 7 ft. high.

A 7 could be placed on a shelf or a table, so you could dump trub, harvest yeast, and rack out of it.

Yes and yes. Whichever you choose.

I’ve never seen the flat lid - this may be an older model.

Either way, these things are BADASS.

The 7 gallon on Blichmann’s web site has a flat lid.

Unless space is a concern, get the 14.5. It’s only $40-50 more than the 7.

Would it hurt anything to do 5 gallon batches in a 14.5 gallon fermenter?

I’ve had my eye on one for awhile. I’m not normally a fan of the hundred-dollar mousetrap, but I believe the Fermenator will help me make more consistent/stable beer and higher quality IPAs and lagers. It will also reduce a significant amount of cleaning/sanitizing. As I get older, the unit will allow me to complete eliminate the lifting of carboys and kegs.

I was waiting on to pop up on the forum, CraigsList, etc., but I don’t see them too often.

I’ve made a few decisions on mine:

  1. Even though I usually only brew in 5 gallon batches, I might as well go for the 14.5 gallon model. Not only does it allow for brewhouse expansion, but I sometimes squeeze out 10-12 gallons of session beer.

  2. Tri-Clamps are definitely worth it. Working in the Food & Bev industry, I can tell you that stainless threads are a PITA to clean and keep clean. They also gall after awhile, so eventually you won’t be able to hold pressure or screw on that bottom valve. TC’s will make quick work of cleaning, changing out parts, and allow your vessel to last pretty much forever.

  3. I don’t think the leg extensions are necessary because you can pressure-transfer. The casters, however, would be nice, but I think I could build them or a transfer cart.

  4. Blichmann recommends controlling ferm. temps with a fridge, but I think it will be easier to use a chiller loop with an internal stainless coil or externally-wrapped coil. This way, I save on space and don’t have to lift the unit out for cleaning. I haven’t worked out the specifics of the chiller loop, but I’ll either build its own loop with an old AC unit or use a recirc pump and a keg of chilled water.

Absolutely not.

A pump would also solve the height problem.

Why would I need a fridge for this when I never did for my buckets? My basement stays a constant 68F year round.

I use a 40 with a flat lid and I dont see what the problem is, and they can be presssurized.

OK this one says it is pressurized for CO2 pumping. Does that mean I could just hook up my CO2 bottle and deliver it to my keg or bottling bucket instead of shelling out another $150 for a pump or $130 for leg extensions?

yes.

you keep the pressure around 3 psi and you are good to go.

Yeah, for getting wort in.  I don’t know that I’d want to pump finished beer with most of the pumps we use.

No? No good?

Most pumps, like the March 809 that most homebrewers use, will introduce air into the wort.

you would want a peristaltic pump I would think. pushing with co2 is going to be way easier though.

I made leg extentions out of 4x4’s.  Work great and much less expensive.