I use a Blichmann fermenter use CO2 to transfer to corney kegs seems I lose a lot of aroma and hop flavors. I have tried to use my late addition hops more at the end of the boil and steep even more hops from 190 to 170*for 30 mins. Yes my hops are fresh. The beer is very drinkable but I’ve even doubled a recipe from a award winning recipe.any ideas?
Dry hop. I’ve pretty much given up late additions and gone back to dry hopping.
Like Denny I’ve pretty much given up late hops too. I rarely dry hop either. But I use a lot of FWH, and get a lot of lavor and aroma in the beer. More than late hops, and different than dry hops, but something you might want to try.
Robert excuse me what’s FWH?
But forgot to add,I do dry hop in fermentor 3 day 8 oz citra/mosaic then 6th day same 4 oz each I’ve tried different IPAs even clone recipe of Bells. I’ve even tried cold crashing to 40* when I reach a 1.012 to several days
I’d suggest 2 things…wait til fermentation is complete to dry hop. And be careful how much you dry hop. Tom Shellhamer has found that in excess of 8 gr./L can be counterproductive and you end up with an herbal character rather than fruity.
I may brew back-to-back beers using the same hop but different timing and techniques to see just what I prefer. I have been using 60-30-10 out of brewday timing convenience but I may like the FWH technique or whirlpool or burst even better. I don’t like to open a keg for dry hopping once I purge and close transfer so I haven’t been dry hopping in a while.
First wort hopping. Adding a portion, even all, of the hops to the kettle as soon as you start lautering wort into it. The hops steep in the wort well below boiling temperature as the kettle is filled, and as it comes to a boil. This gives the oils time to become permanently solubilized so they are not lost during the boil. Once the wort reaches ~170°F you start isomerizing alpha as well, so the method has been measured to be ~10% more efficient for bittering than a 90 minute boil. This helps to allow a low intensity, short boil also, which will help preserve all the flavors and aromas in the wort. Another tool in the toolbox.
I don’t detect any aroma from GET but I do think I get more hop flavor, as well as a smoother bitterness. I’ve done it on probably at least 75% of my beers over the last 20 years. But there’s a lot of debate about what, if anything, it does. Although the results of my study on it were inconclusive, I continue to do because I think it works. Start here on pg. 20. Ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2008/DennyConn.pdf
AFAIK, I’m the one who found it to provide 10% more IBU. Not aware of anyone else testing it, although if they have I’d love to see it. But it seems to taste like fewer IBU. I count FWH as the same IBU level as a 20 min. addition because that’s what it tastes like to me. After all, when we sit down with a beer it’s to taste it, not measure it.
And I get a lot of aroma, more than late additions, and less fleeting than dry hopping. So this is probably a real case of YMMV, depending on a lot of variables in your system. The science of how this works is not well known, so its something g to try and see what you get.
Pretty sure I read the 10% in something by Stan. But maybe he cribbed it from you! [emoji16]
And don’t rule out confirmation bias. I can’t think of any tasters in my study who got aroma from it. Which is not to say it doesn’t happen. Just that it wasn’t found in my testing.
Confirmation bias would have taken me the other way. It was experiences when I just heaved a sigh, gave up on trying to get the aroma I wanted, and threw all my hops in FWH while I figured I’d rethink my process and figure out why the aroma wasn’t what I expected – and presto, there was the aroma, and flavor, and all – that, repeated a few times, taught me that I get the most of aroma, flavor, and bitterness from FWH. My experience. Again I expect others with different processes and variables will get different results. But, if what the OP or anyone else is currently doing isn’t working, it’s something to try. Might get lucky like me.
EDIT. As I think about this, two process variables that may work in my favor here are 1) I do a conventional sparge. This means that from the time first wort and hops hit the kettle to the time a boil is achieved can be 90 minutes. I can see that a shorter process, like no sparge or batch sparge, might not allow for effective extraction of FWH. And 2) I do a short, low intensity, low evaporation, covered boil. I suppose no matter how much you start with in wort, with a very vigorous, high boil off you might drive off any extra you gained, although the German studies claimed that the effect of FWH was largely to do with transformation of oils into products that aren’t volatile. But I believe thermal stress will destroy aromatic compounds from hops just as it does from malt. Don’t know, just thoughts.
BTW this topic is really on the wrong board!
Sorry new to posting so have a learning curve here 
also in need of a beer acronym Dictionary, I’d rather brew beer 
No worries. Welcome aboard. Plenty to learn — you can get as deep as you’d like.
Second that! The comment wasn’t aimed at the OP, I thought maybe Admin would take notice and move it.
EDIT and they did, so ignore this.
IME, this threshold is very dependent on hop variety. I’ve dry-hopped up to 5 lbs/bbl without getting any perceptible herbal/grassy character. I’ve settled on 3-4 lbs/bbl as the sweet spot in my home brewery. This rate is what also was used where I used to work. Again, no grassy/herbal.
Shellhammer’s study referenced here used only cascade. I’ve always gotten grassy/herbal when I dry hop with cascade, at any level, and I also get it from galaxy. I never use these hops anymore for this reason. But going big with fresh mosaic, citra, strata, amarillo, etc., is not a problem, at least in my brewery. Shellhammer’s study shouldn’t scare anyone away from the 3-4 lbs/bbl range…unless you’re dry hopping with cascade, that is.
Shellhammer’s study can be used to guide the use of cascade, and only cascade.
Do you dry hop in the keg and fermenter?
I use a lot of noble hops, so my standard procedure is to FWH with Magnum to the calculated IBU’s (if it isn’t a recipe that I have down pat) and then a modest amount at -0- (like 2 ozs of Hallertauer or Mittelfruh) in 10 gallon batches. I chill relatively quickly using both a WIC and a counterflow chiller, so not much late hop carries forward, but I like the subtle flavor and aroma additions from it. Most of my brews are lagers that I can get to 56 degrees based on my well water temperature in a few minutes, so it is nothing like a hopstand or whirlpool addition.