Having trouble finding the right false bottom for this cooler. Checked the usual suspects and find several sites that claim to have the one. All I find are either 9" or 12" and larger. A rough measurement t of my new cooler puts diameter at about 10.5". I did find 1 site that sells a kit with bottom, bulkhead, valve, etc but it’s like $68 and I only paid $25 for the cooler. Any thoughts or experiences. The cooler is just what I was looking for for 3-3.5 gallon batches AG
Here’s what I did with mine (1/2 value setup with the stainless braid), but I batch sparge. Not sure if I’m any help… I have been enjoying 3 gal. Batch sizes.
-Tony
I do 3G batches in the same cooler. I also use a braid and batch sparge.
I’ve got one that came with Northern Brewers all-grain cooler kit. I no longer use it. Private message me if you’re interested in getting it from me.
I believe Austin Homebrew Supply has one that fits. I have that same cooler and that’s where I bought mine.
Great to know. I thought I remembered reading that braids in the beverage coolers could have problems. So much simpler. Thanks so much!
Here is one from AIH specifically for a 5 gallon Igloo cooler.
Yes that’s the one I referenced that is almost $70 worth of equipment to add to a $25 cooler. I almost ordered it, but am happy to see that I can get by cheaper with a braid
Braids work great if batch sparging, where you don’t have worry about uniform flow of sparge water through your grain bed, which is what the false bottom designs are intended for in the case of fly sparging. As a batch-sparging convert from fly sparging, I highly recommend going that route. That’s why I have the false bottom laying around…
Yes, I do also batch sparge so a braid it will be. Thanks all, nice to be able to forget about that $70 pile of parts just sitting around unused when I later made this discovery. Like I said, I almost bought it right away and am so glad I came here to ask for thoughts. Yall saved me some money for some other parts, project, etc
The only thing I did do differently on the cooler than my 72 quart cooler was to place 4 or 5 garden hose washers on the outside of the pipe nipple that goes through the cooler to provide more stability for the ball valve. I do remember they were very snug/tight and I even cut the last washer or two to get them on. I got the idea from the web, if I find the link I’ll post it.
-Tony
I like that idea. My original tun was a 50qt coleman that eventually started to have less and less stability on the outside wall from the weight of my valve hanging from it. As it sagged, I would lose my seal on the inside of the wall, leaking sweet wort inside the walls, causing some mold. What a nightmare that became.I have now alleviated that after finally tracking down a valve similar to what Denny says to use. For some reason that little bugger was the hardest piece for me to find for my first build
Check out Phil’s Phalse Bottom.
http://listermannbrewing.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/12_Bottom.pdf
My LBHS (at the time…now sadly gone) gifted me with one of these nearly 25 years ago (for referring so many brewers to their store) and I have been using it ever since. It works fantastically well in the Igloo/Rubbermade round vessels. I modifies my linkages to using a stainless steel spigot, but either way, it works beautifully.
Are false bottoms harder to get clean?
Thanks Professor, I need to stop at Listermann’s anyways for supplies, I’ll see what they have.
I used both in my 10 gallon igloo cooler. Can’t say I saw much difference except I drained more wort out of the braid. I’m now strictly false bottom RIMS, (meaning I have a 10 gallon setup with both options taking up space in my basement if you’re interested).
I might be JT, maybe we can talk at the next meeting we both make it to