Impossabrew!

Hey ladiez and gents …new to the forum here. Im from South Africa …yes ,metric system brewer  . Awsome forum and great info . Just started with the hoby and love it!  Probaply brewed 5 or 6 brews the past two weeks …just enuff to realise i have lots to learn . We have a mountain resort with mineral water with perfect ph arount 5.4-.5.2( will have final readings tomorrow .) I have lots of reading to do and questions to ask .  were builing a little brew house so long at home as were still waiting for the licence (takes about 6 months to a year) 
  .

Learning as we go …looks like contamenation is gonna be a problem zo were building a little brew cave .

Tnx for stopping by . And leave behind some tips of wisdom hehe

Welcome aboard!

Welcome. You will find a few other metric users here. I can handle grams and temperature in my head, by kilos are still rough for me.

welcome! I’m a metric brewer myself. although annoyingly in the states you have to order everything in ounces and pounds.

Sweet man , it will come in handy … well first two batches are priming i have an Sierra navada , eng pale ale , a Weizz formenting . And my IPA only bubbled for a day and it stopped . So gonna second stage it by day 4 and rebucket . Is that normal?

just let it ride man.

bubbles in the airlock don’t really mean anything. there could be a bad seal that’s letting co2 out elsewhere.
Even if it is done fermenting the sugars to alcohols the yeast is still working and removing the beer from most of the yeast won’t help anything
transferring isn’t really necessary anyway. RDWHAHB

just let it ride man.

bubbles in the airlock don’t really mean anything. there could be a bad seal that’s letting co2 out elsewhere.
Even if it is done fermenting the sugars to alcohols the yeast is still working and removing the beer from most of the yeast won’t help anything
transferring isn’t really necessary anyway. RDWHAHB

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o ok ,i c so the dead yeast in the bottom wont affect the beer taste after 10 days?

o ok ,i c so the dead yeast in the bottom wont affect the beer taste after 10 days?

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nope. not even after 20 or 30 days in my experience.

Welkom op hierdie bierforum, Pandabeer!

Welcome to the forum. Good advice here from good people.

So ive been thinking about the formenting proses . When u use yore chiller in the wort pot …stiring in a wirlpool formation . Do u guys let it stand for a bit to let the most of the hops and hazynezs settle before u transfer to the carboi?  (Apoligies im deslexic ) or do u want some of the hops in the formentimg bucket?

Walls are up ,tomorrow is painting .

I whirlpool with a spoon and let it settle for 10 minutes or so till not much motion is visible on the surface then I run off into fermenters trying to keep most of the trub and hop matter in the center of the kettle. But I also don’t stress about it when some invariably carries over.

I whirlpool with a pump because I have a wort chiller with recirculation. I fire up the pump at about 15 minutes till flame out. It runs until I’ve chilled then I shut it off and take a hydrometer sample. When the trub in the hydromater sample has settled to the bottom (about 15-20 min) I rack to fermentor with an auto syphon. I try to get nothing but clear wort but I don’t sweat it if i suck up a little cloudy stuff.

It makes great sense tnx. Well 2 of the batches im not goinig to transfer to a new carboi . Ill keep them in their origenal carboi . To see the difrence . And when the room is done well be starting with our own recepe . I couldnt belive it but SABreweries sells hops and pale malt to the public . Its so much cheaper than the imported products . So gonna play around with the hops . Southern promise and southern passion looks like a good start.

klick what kind of pump do u use ?
A link would be great tnx

Also , i need to work on getting a clearer bear . So thats one step . What about cold crashing . Dunno about the gelatine method …it feals to me that will mess with taste . Also investing in a filter …worth it ? And what types? . lastly will u forment after formenting ? Or before pitching yeast?

With good technique, you can get very clear beer without post-fermentation finings or filtration (you will still want to use whirfloc or Irish moss in the kettle).

I try not to suck up too much trub when transferring from the kettle to the fermentor, but I really don’t think that has a huge impact on getting clear beer in the glass.

Hitting the proper mash pH, cold crashing the fermentor for several days prior to packaging, and cold aging the beer after packaging have always been enough for me.

If you are bottling, try storing the bottles cold for several weeks after they are properly carbonated.  The particulate should settle down to the bottom, and you can leave it behind when pouring into the glass.

I have a cheap plastic Chugger from morebeer.com

Just an quick update … the room is taking shape nicely … were working to a setup that will benefit us ro reach a goal of an consistent quality beer.

Ph reading came back a 6.2 ph .
Aparently when theres good rain years ph climbs … so something ill have to look at .

All the best .

The pH of the mash is what you want to focus on, not the pH of the source water.

Check out the water knowledge page of the Bru’n Water website for a good primer:

Looks like your brewery is really coming together nicely.