My very old kegerator has died. I am considering building a keezer. I replaced to original tower on the old kegerator with a three tap tower that I would like to use on a keezer. Meaning I would like to drill into the lid and just attach the current tower onto the lid of a 5 C.U. freezer/refrigerator. Looking at various models it looks as though I can drill into the lid without harming any cooling tubes. Not sure about a garage ready version, but they all seem to have electricity for a light, making lid removal a bit more tricky.
Questions: If I don’t put on a collar, will my kegs fit? (As it is, I’ve always had to use one three gallon keg to have three beers.)
Can I drill into the lid without harming the cooling system.
If it’s labeled as a refrigerator/freezer do I still need a temp regulator?
Any particular brand of 5 cu unit that someone would recommend?
Any advise would be helpful. Most of the posts on this subject seem to be very old, I am wondering if folks just buy a kegerator instead of a DIY keezer.
I believe you will have to measure the height of your kegs with the ball lock fittings and compare against the internal depth of the freezer.
I have not seen a freezer with cooling coils in the lid due to the complexity of a flexible connection for the coolant lines that would allow the lid to open. Most freezers have solid copper coolant tubing. Maybe a super high-end chest freezer would have such a thing but I doubt it.
The fridge/freezer label means it can run at different temperature ranges, but you would have to set the unit up and monitor the internal temperature to see if it maintains the temperature at the target, and within the tolerance, you want. If not you may need a temp controller.
I personally added a collar to an old 7 cu ft chest freezer, slapped on a cheap temp controller and it worked just fine. You get a lot of flexibility in terms of mounting CO2 regulators and such to the collar also.
I really want to use my current tower, I’m more and more confident I can drill through the lid, and will measure internal depths in hopes I don’t need a collar. Going to a 7ft chest is almost too big for my space. But, remains an option.
Just to be clear I cited a 7 CUBIC ft chest freezer, not a chest freezer that is 7 linear feet wide. Big difference. I think my 7 cu ft is only about 4 ft wide.
I second all of Kilroy’s advice, and would add that a temperature controller (e.g., Inkbird) is a must. They’re not too expensive, and a good backup to ensure you are maintaining temperature.
One more suggestion. Put a stop collar on your drill bit at a little over the thickness of the top material, say about 1/8 inch. You can get stop collars cheap on amazon. That will prevent you from punching into anything vital. I do this when I have to drill into the side of a fridge where there ARE coolant tubes. Once you have a hole, use a smaller drill bit to poke around in the hole and make sure nothing is under it. But like I said I’ve never seen a freezer with coolant lines in the lid.
Thanks, but I understood what you meant. I know how this sounds, but the space I’m going to use is an old kegerator. It fit perfectly between the Coke machine and window edge. A 5 cf unit would be approximately the same foot print, therefore not blocking the window.
A 7cf unit would probably be a better replacement in a different location.
I’ve made the purchase, the kegs with lines attached will fit under the lid. I’ve ordered a thermostat. It looks like I can drill a hole in the top without hitting anything but foam.
Tried to find a YouTube video but here is what Google AI said. It is what I did when I setuP my kegerator about 20 years ago I wiped the dried cornstarch over the line the put down blue painters tape over that clean section If you don’t see a line you are fine I can’t see how there would be a coolant line in your freezer lid as the lid opens
Using cornstarch and rubbing alcohol is a popular DIY trick to locate hidden refrigerant or coolant lines in fridges, typically to avoid puncturing them during kegerator conversions or repairs. The mixture acts as a temperature indicator, creating a “ghost” outline of the lines under the metal shell. [1, 2]
Step-by-Step Instructions
1. Mix the Solution
Combine cornstarch and rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) in a small container to create a thin, watery slurry. It should have the consistency of skim milk—thin enough to brush on, but thick enough to leave a light white coating. [1, 2]
2. Prep and Apply
Ensure the fridge or freezer is currently off and at room temperature. Use a clean paintbrush to wipe a thin, even layer of the mixture over the areas where you plan to drill or cut. [1, 2, 3, 4]
3. Activate the Cooling
Turn the fridge on and set it to its absolute coldest setting. [1]
4. Watch for the Lines
As the unit begins to cool, the mixture will start to dry. Because the alcohol evaporates faster and the cornstarch reacts to temperature changes, the areas directly over the hidden cooling coils will dry or change color first. Wait 10 to 20 minutes to see a “ghost line” or outline of the lines. [1, 2, 3]
5. Mark and Drill Carefully
The cornstarch directly over the coolant tubes will stand out. Do not drill or cut within at least an inch (2.5 cm) of these highlighted lines to avoid puncturing the closed refrigerant loop. [1, 2]
Important Tips
Use adequate ventilation: Rubbing alcohol fumes can be strong, so do this in a well-ventilated area.
Alternative method: Some builders use standard spray starch in place of cornstarch and water.
Proceed with caution: This method provides a very helpful guideline, but it isn’t 100% foolproof. If you must drill, always consider using a thin probe or carefully chipping away layers of insulation manually to double-check the area first. [1, 2, 3, 4]
One other thing to remember. If your freezer lid has an indicator light in it, make sure that you either disconnect the wire for the indicator or do not drill/cut through it and short the indicator light out. I just disconnected mine. If there is no light on the lid, you should be fine.
Most all domestic freezers have plastic panels on the inside. Plastic being easier to cut, I would start by opening up the inside and doing a search. Once you verify that there are no electric wires (it is extremely unlikely that there are any cooling elements in the lid for reasons already cited) you can cut your hold for the tower with confidence.
A friend help another friend drill holes for Perlick taps on the side of an upright and, you guessed it, drilled through a cooling coil. They opened up the inside and charted where the lines were located, bought another identical freezer and then drilled where the coils weren’t. That’s the expensive way to do it.
Also keep in mind that with the tower mounted to the lit, it will tip backwards when the lid is opened. Make sure there is enough room for it to tip back.
Thanks, I’ve also thought of a reinforcement “panel” on the inside of the lid. Like a 1/4" piece of plywood, or something similar. There’s about an inch on clearance from the top of a connected keg to the bottom of the lid.
I’ve also thought of placing the tower towards the back of the lid, hoping it will minimize some of the torque on the mount when opened.
Actually you may want the wood on the outside of the lid due to possible condensation. Stain it the same color as the collar I am sure it will look nice.
A buddy of mine had a two tower four tap set up on a chest freezer, no collar. Once he installed a couple extra tall tap handles. Opened the lid as normal but the tap handles touched the wall behind and he had a multi-beer shower.
I converted a fridge, put four taps on the door, and realized as I opened the freezer, I had just missed making the fridge a dumpster trophy. Can’t have anything but the small black handles on it.
Thanks for the input. My plan, is to not use a collar. I’m pretty certain that I can drill a hole in the lid and mount an existing three tap tower from the dead kegerator. Two five gal. kegs fit perfectly in the bottom and a 3 or 2.5 gal. will fit on the compressor shelf.
I will make a dolly for it to sit on, so I can move it easily. Probably trim with plain molding.
I hope to have it basically assembled tomorrow. I’m waiting for the thermostat control to arrive.
