So, I finally sprung to refurb my kegerator with Perlicks and barrier tubing. I’ve got a 3-faucet setup, and one of my Perlicks is kinda binding up. Opening and closing the faucet has a metal-on-metal crunchy feel to it. Took it apart, and sure enough the “upper” ball on the control stalk (the pivot ball, not the closure one) has a scuff mark on the side where it’s wearing against the main part of the faucet. Lots of swarf too, really don’t want metal bits in my beer.
So, is this something that needs to be returned? Or did I goon something up when I put the faucets back together after their initial cleaning? The other two work just fine.
I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one. I did toss it into a batch of StarSan I already had made up, but after a couple minutes of soaking mine was installed without any disassembly.
I didn’t pull any of the o-rings. Just too them apart and gave everything a light cleaning, then rinsed everything and put it all back together.
EDIT: Took it all apart again and put it back together, and now it’s fine…not sure why. I was putting it back together and working the tap to try and see if any one part was putting pressure on the control stalk. I’ll keep an eye on it.
That being said, it it normal for the range of motion of the flow control lever to be a lot less when the faucet is attached to the tower? Uninstalled there’s about 225o of motion, install about a third of that.
Yep. Next time you take it off the shank, play with the lever and watch the flow control bolt - you’ll see why that is. The bolt comes into contact with the shank itself, which is what causes the flow control to work.
Interesting. The flow control mech on the Intertaps works by pulling the bolt into the faucet body. The bolt has a slight taper that matches a taper in the body.
On first inspection I thought it maybe worked the same way as the Perlick. The only issue I see with “plugging the shank” is the possible variances from shank to shank. I don’t know if there is actual variability, but I’d imagine there would be.