I am being bombarded by family members for Christmas gift ideas. One of the things I have been interested in is a good pH meter. But every time I get close to getting one I am stopped by one thing: What difference will it make?
As I understand it, it takes about 30 minutes for the mash pH to stabilize. If an adjustment is made at that point (particularly given the sample cool-down requirement) it will just swing into the correct pH about the time to lauter. So I think, ‘What’s the point?’
I have got to be wrong on that though since the pros (I assume) check pH. So:
Tell me how I am wrong.
Tell me what pH meter to buy.
FYI, I like to buy the right thing first, rather than go cheap and then get disgusted and go out and buy the right thing later.
I wont say you are wrong. But I believe the mash ph will level out fairly quickly…probably by the time you are mixed in well after doughing in. I usually pull a sample after about 5-10 mins once im hapoy with the temp and hqve mixed the mash well. On the otherhand a ph reading in a sample can also tke a few mins to fully stabalize. But once i know im in the ballpark i call it good enough. There might be a small change in the reading but not anything I even consider.
Wether a ph meter is worth it for you or not depends on if it will help produce better beer? Are you checking mash ph now? Do you know the ph of your sparge water? Are you in the ideal ranges for the steps in your process? You might be making excellent beers without a ph meter but its a tool that can help find a problem you didnt onow about. I check mash ph, I acidify my sparge water, I check pre-boil and post boil ph as well as final beer ph at times. Helps me know everythi g is going as it should.
Your water may be close enough to give you good results.
It is just another tool to aid us who are always in search of perfection.
“My next beer is going to be even better than this one.”
My water is very hard with pH 7.2 - 7.8 depending upon season.
It requires significant phosphoric acid to get anywhere near ideal pH for conversion.
I convinced my self that I didn’t need a pH meter until Mat Chrispen gave me one. I use it a lot. For checking mash ph, sparge ph, preboil, post boil, and final beer pH. If I had to upgrade I would get something name brand with accuracy and display to hundreths. Mine is just to the tenths and is just fine. And I dont think auto temp is all that vital.
Bru’n Water is very accurate with mash ph estimation. A meter is just a tool to verify, just like checking mash temp. My water is pretty stable, but is highly alkaline so I need to acidify with acid so using a program and checking my mash ph with a meter is pretty valuable. I rarely have to adjust once I check it, but I like to know that I’m good. Honestly I find the ph meter more useful throughout the whole process like mentioned above rather than just limited to mash ph.
I use Bru’n Water as well. I have been very pleased with my Milwaukee 102 meter. It is very accurate for me and holds its calibration pretty well. I use it to verify the Bru’n Water estimate and am usually within a few .01s. I have found that dialing in my mash pH is one of those “next step” things to improving my beers.
The only issue I’ve had so far is taking a measurement with too many little grain particles in the sample and getting some grains stuck in the probe. Running it under some water cleared that up. I haven’t yet had to replace the probe and I’ve had it for about a year now. I store it in some electrode solution.
I don’t. The beer turns out pretty good though. I guess it is a trust thing. Nonetheless, I am still considering putting it on my list for Christmas. What do you recommend?
I’ve had great success with my Milwaukee MW100, but one day I want to upgrade to the 102. Better accuracy and finer detail readout. The 100 is head and shoulders over colorphast and colorphast is better than nothing at all.
If it were me I would get a Milwaukee 101/102. That said, if you choose to continue without a pH meter I would go as far as to say you’d be better off with just Brunwater estimates than by using the colorpHast strips. Brunwater is closer vs pH meter than the colorpHast is vs. pH meter IME. Too many times the readings were a bit vague and they are also sensitive to the type of light source. Then there is the +.03 offset or whatever it is. Oh and then they expire too, but when? Im not sure… and how long were they on the shelf before you bought them? Who knows? The strips just add unnecessary confusion in my mind.
One other example, I had been using the colorpHast strips for a while (with Brunwater) and feeling like they were working fine. Then on a porter I got a pH on the colorpHast strips of 5.2. So I added some bicarb (with Brunwater as my guide) to bring it closer to 5.4-5.5. No change in color. So I added some more and then some more and then I waited a while and tested again. Still no change in color. Knew there was a limit to how much bicarb I was willing to add and just proceeded with the beer. I bought a pH meter at that point and haven’t looked back.
What is the middle ground between the pH strips and the more expensive (in a relative way, as $80-$100 is not that expensive) meters?
I see many of the pen/stick style black and yellow meters on Amazon going for $15-$30. What is my mid range option? I currently just use Bru’n Water and economy pH strips and have been pretty happy with the results.
but it’s an older model so I’m not sure how different. It has separate replaceable probes for both the pH and temp., which is nice if you just want to measure the temp. of something but the cables do tend to get tangled up. I’ve had the meter for close to two decades and it is very well built. I have replaced the electrode a few times of course.
Perhaps something like this would also be of high quality?:
Get the cheaper meter and several small bottles of calibration solution. The stuff gets out of whack with O2 exposure. You’ll get an idea of the drift when calibrating, which you should do every measurement. Proper storage, calibration, and a thorough rinse with RO/DI between solutions will go a lot farther than more $$ on the meter/electrodes.
Many inexpensive meters on Amazon are Chinese knock offs of the original Hanna pHep (HI96107). Some are red. Some are yellow. Mainly they are coming from Kelilong who copies many brands.
While working in India, the market was flooded with them due to the low price. I have personally tested a few and found some problems from no slope to being DOA.
It is recommended to stick with the main manufacturers including Hanna, Milwaukee, HM digital, and Oakton/Eutech to name a few. You will have a warranty (not completely sure on HM but would think they have good support) and can always contact their service departments if you need help.
The main differences in meters are:
Pocket, Portable or Benchtop (increasing in price)
Waterproof vs non waterproof
Automatic calibration versus manual calibration
Automatic temperature compensation versus no temperature compensation
Replaceable pH electrode versus no replaceable
A good quality pocket will run $80 -100
The portable Milwaukee looks to be at a good price at $100. A pH electrode can cost anywhere from $40 on up with an average plastic body gel filled being around $80.
There are many other options that can be valuable depending on the use. Meaning I would not recommend a $300-400 portable for a hobbyist unless they can afford and is what they want.
A decent portable will offer:
GLP data (date, time, offset, slope and buffers used during calibration)
diagnostic messages to know that the probe is okay
USB for transferring data
Specialized pH electrodes (i.e. high temp glass that is suitable to use at +150 oF. many electrodes are made with general purpose glass that degrade quickly at high temps)
There are also Bluetooth pH electrodes now available that work with an iPad. They are running +$150 but using an iPad allows for a full functional pH meter that has features found in benchtops.
Just got a Milwaukee 101 today. Been checking anything around the house that has a Ph notwithstanding. Kicks-ass!
Cant wait to use it for brewing.
What is the average lifespan in the probe/electrode?