Kunze wants me to remove the hot break, but allows me keep the cold one. Any suggestions on how to do that? I brew in a Speidel Braumeister, which is basically an electric biab.
If you drink enough, you’ll forget all about it.
A whirlpool. Or do a separation using another vessel. Let break material fall and rack off of it. Again you are only allowed to keep cold break IF you are able to do the two steps after he states you can keep it.
Uncalled for.
I may have to re read my Kunze but my recollection is that a bit of cold trub is OK, not that you have to keep it all, and that the research is not conclusive.
Thanks so much. That is exactly what I recall. I personally use sedimentation/ precipitation. From what I read and what I asked not everybody does it. My personal bias is that homebrewing hot break separation methods are not as good so I am sure I am getting a bit of both. I know this is not what you recommend but works for me. Thanks again for taking the time to look in Künze.
Uncalled for 
Yes, but those two conditions are difficult to measure. When is enough hot break removed, and what is fermentative yeast (in German gärkräftige Hefe) anyway? I was actually hoping there would be a genius on this forum who would give me a method to remove the hot break without transferring to another vessel, because why else have a Braumeister 
My two cents. Transfer to a 20L Speidel filling it completely to the top (22L) and leaving as much hot break behind as you can. Lock the Speidel. Chill it to 0C, transfer to primary via the spigot leaving the precipitate behind.
Aren’t BIAB systems–manual or electronic–basically the antithesis of the LODO paradigm?
Pretty much!
Challenge accepted.
Why?
Well…I do manual BIAB in the boil kettle and I’m giving LODO a try with some tweaks to my process (pre-boil, SMB, no stir mash-in, Brewtan, etc.) and some small equipment additions (floating SS mash cap and post boil cap, large SS bowl with drain to under wort level for draining bag, etc.).
Brewed a German Pils last week and the FG sample tasted amazing. I’m going to try an ESB tomorrow.
We’ll see in about a month.
I know, I know…a month ago I was poo-pooing LODO as too much trouble and “all-or-nothing”. But I’m an incurable tinkerer. I can’t help it. :o
I’ll drink to that. :D Though “drink-to-forget” is a concept that has been around for several thousand years.
One way BIAB doesn’t work is the whole “lift the grain out” thing is pretty much impossible to do without splashing.
I know a lot of diehard BIABers use hoists. It could be done slowly to prevent splashing. Adjusting the mechanical advantage of the pulleys would slow it way down while also reducing the effort of work.
But then you’re losing one of the perceived advantages of BIAB, namely saving time. You’d have to lift it so slowly that all the liquid is allowed to slowly drain from the grain, which would be a long amount of time.
I used to BIAB. Having converted to a cooler mash tun, I really don’t see much advantage to BIAB unless you’re committed to only having one vessel.
As Stevie mentioned, if you lift slowly there is no splashing. It is about 2 to 3 minutes. At this time you have one liter of wort in the bag. If you discard this liter, you have less oxygen uptake than with any other method. You can also save this liter having it drip if you consider this minimal.
In transferring, even when to the bottom of the other vessel, you will get exposure to oxygen of the initial volume that you transfer; this exposure can be less than BIAB or can be more, I do not know.