Hi guys, I’m going to be brewing a 1 gal. batch of Dead Ringer IPA (1.064) this weekend. Anyone think I need a yeast starter, or can I pitch it dry?
What yeast are you using? If you’re using a dry yeast then no need to make a starter. Just rehydrate the appropriate amount of yeast and pitch it.
If you’re using a liquid yeast then yes, you should make a starter. Check out Mrmalty.com for the right sized starter.
If it’s only a 1 gallon batch you don’t need a starter for liquid yeast at that gravity.
Ah, I missed the 1 gallon part.
At 1 gallon it IS a starter. Well almost.
^^^ This! ^^^ Skip the starter, it basically IS a starter.
At that size I wouldn’t bother with a starter if you are pitching new yeast but if you’re pitching from harvested yeast then the yeast will benefit from a small starter to get the yeast reactivated. I find pitching washed yeast without a starter results in delayed fermentation even at the one gallon level.
Definitely no starter for dry yeast. At that volume/gravity, I’d pitch 2-3 g (1/4 pack) rehydrated.
Good deal. Thanks guys!
^^^^^^^
I am wanting to use some washed yeast for a 2.5 gallon batch, should I make a starter and how do I know how big of a starter to make?
Check out https://www.wyeastlab.com/com-yeast-harvest.cfm. I dont believe it answers your question exactly but it helped me understand and better implement re pitching. As far as a starter for 2.5 gallons goes I would probably just use a half quart of 1.040 or less and pitch a two ounces of slurry (about 70billion in a 50/50 mix). In the article it tells you how to estimate cells in a slurry by observing the ratio of liquid to yeast before mixing. So you can use a starter calculator (Mr. Malty, Beersmith or whatever) and determine exactly what you need to add to your starter to end up with the cell count you want for that volume/gravity. It seems many people like to over pitch when the yeast is available and get good results but I’m starting to pay more attention to cell counts hopefully to aid in consistency batch to batch.
Besides being a less than optimal process from a biological stability point of view, rinsing yeast with and storing it under boiled water results in accelerated glycogen store depletion. Rinsing and storing yeast under boiled water is a home brewer-only procedure that is steeped more in myth than in science.
http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/2010_TT_EN_HD.pdf
“Recovering yeast after fermentation and repitching is possible if the cell count is controlled to give the correct yeast pitching levels. In order to control them, laboratory equipment will be needed. In the same way and using the same equipment, bacteria can be removed by acid washing in carefully controlled conditions. In case of repitching, yeast must not be stored out of beer for long periods, even at low temperatures, as yeast glycogen levels will fall causing slow fermentations. Yeast mutation occurs rapidly in brewing environments, repitching can be a delicate operation and may cause beer quality problems in terms of flavour, yeast settling, diacetyl absorption. Effects of repitching can be seen in as few as 3 to 5 brews especially concerning diacetyl reabsorption. For ale beers that are generally more flavoursome diacetyl levels are less critical.”
Ok, great infromation regarding washing and repitching but some of this kind of muddies the water for me. However I think I can draw some conclusions using this and other info I have come across.
- Cell count is crucial, work to make the most accurate cell count possible for any given pitch
- Skip the washing of yeast.
- just store yeast in the beer from which it was harvested
- Dont push the number of repitches when lager is involved
Given what I have read on the forums I know many will disagree with #1,2 and 3 but Im hoping
S. cerevisiae will set me straight, and expand upon his thoughts where needed for better or worse…
For sub-16 Plato batches, one should attempt to keep the cell count to within a couple of multiples of the calculated pitch rate.
I do not know who started the yeast rinsing craze, but it is a poor practice that is not grounded in science. Brewers have been repitching yeast for hundreds of years without rinsing it with boiled water. The whole rinsing yeast with and storing it under boiled water movement is based on a faulty application of research performed by the ATCC that was designed to store small amounts of yeast under autoclaved distilled water at room temperature. The critical step in this process is to remove all traces of nutrient via centrifugation.
Given the choice between storing yeast under green beer and storing it under boiled tap or distilled water, one should always choose green beer.
Finally, I would say one should not push the number of generations with any bottom-cropped culture. Experience with bottom cropping in one’s brewery is the best teacher.
Can I jump in? What about sub 5 gallon batches? Using WLP001 on a 3 gallon pale ale. Starter?
don’t think you need to if its pretty fresh. i’d just likely throw it in, unless its older and then make 1L 1.030 starter.
Risky. 3 gallons is not far from 5 gallon, and with liquid yeast you never know for sure how good the storage was between manufacturer and your own refrigerator. I’d make a starter for 3 gallons, even if only one liter. Only exception might be for hefeweizen where underpitching is arguably better than the standard pitch rate anyway.
IMO, depends on the OG. I’m brewing a 2.5 gal. batch lf 1.062 IPA on the Zymatic today and I don’t intend to make a starter for it. If it was 5 gal. the OG would be 1.0p31 and I’m OK with not using a starter for that.
For that beer/yeast you’ll be fine unless the yeast is very old.
Personally, my batches are targeting a final volume of 2.5 gallons (3 gallons or so into the fermenter). I don’t make a starter for ales unless the yeast is pretty old or I’m brewing a high gravity beer. Since liquid yeast is a bit of a treat for me (I don’t have a LHBS that is convenient to me, and I try to order in bulk online instead of batch-by-batch), I do try to stretch it out by brewing a few batches in succession. I will typically do 2 successive batches in the 1.040-1.060 range, then brew a big beer (1.090+) - all using some (or all) of the yeast from the prior beer.
For lagers, I typically make starters in the 2-3 quart range.