Coleman 52 quart conversion to mash tun?

[system]

@denny

I get much better draining without a bulkhead.  I urge you to try it that way first before you spring for a bulkhead

Interesting, they’re both 3/8in ID right?  I don’t see why it would make a difference.

[denny]

@narvin

@denny

I get much better draining without a bulkhead.  I urge you to try it that way first before you spring for a bulkhead

Interesting, they’re both 3/8in ID right?  I don’t see why it would make a difference.

The bulkhead held the braid up off the floor of the cooler, resulting in poorer draining.  By attaching the braid to a piece of flexible vinyl tubing, it not only lies flat on the bottom of the cooler, the tubing forms a siphon to aid draining.  Another situation where fancier and more expensive is not necessarily better.

[slowbrew]

@slowbrew

@denny

@slowbrew

I have that same cooler and have been using it for years with a bulkhead conversion and a stainless steel toilet line braid.

It has worked very well.

Paul

If the OP really wants to save money, he can skip the bulkhead.  Not only is my method less expensive, I found it works better than a bulkhead.  I used one for a few brews then went back to the bung/valve setup.

I can’t disagree.

I built mine with a bulkhead and have never tried using it with anything else.

The bulkhead can cause the inner liner of the cooler to crack if over tightened.  You also may get a very small amount of leakage around the seals that I have never found a permanent way to fix.  I’ve never seen more than a teaspoon on any given brew day (I’ve had cars that leak more oil daily than that  ).

All in all it works but isn’t perfect.

Paul

For my build on a different Coleman cooler, I ended up buying a piece of PVC pipe, cut it to length, used a dremel to increase the drain hole to fit the pipe, then used food grade silicone to seal either end. My bulkhead grips down on the pipe rather than the crushing insulation. Zero leaks and a nice tight fit for the bulkhead.

Nice idea.  I’ll keep it in mind the next time I disassemble it.

Thanks!

Paul

[system]

@denny

@narvin

@denny

I get much better draining without a bulkhead.  I urge you to try it that way first before you spring for a bulkhead

Interesting, they’re both 3/8in ID right?  I don’t see why it would make a difference.

The bulkhead held the braid up off the floor of the cooler, resulting in poorer draining.  By attaching the braid to a piece of flexible vinyl tubing, it not only lies flat on the bottom of the cooler, the tubing forms a siphon to aid draining.  Another situation where fancier and more expensive is not necessarily better.

Ah, makes sense.

[sigrooms (Sam G)]

@slowbrew

@slowbrew

@denny

@slowbrew

I have that same cooler and have been using it for years with a bulkhead conversion and a stainless steel toilet line braid.

It has worked very well.

Paul

If the OP really wants to save money, he can skip the bulkhead.  Not only is my method less expensive, I found it works better than a bulkhead.  I used one for a few brews then went back to the bung/valve setup.

I can’t disagree.

I built mine with a bulkhead and have never tried using it with anything else.

The bulkhead can cause the inner liner of the cooler to crack if over tightened.  You also may get a very small amount of leakage around the seals that I have never found a permanent way to fix.  I’ve never seen more than a teaspoon on any given brew day (I’ve had cars that leak more oil daily than that  ).

All in all it works but isn’t perfect.

Paul

For my build on a different Coleman cooler, I ended up buying a piece of PVC pipe, cut it to length, used a dremel to increase the drain hole to fit the pipe, then used food grade silicone to seal either end. My bulkhead grips down on the pipe rather than the crushing insulation. Zero leaks and a nice tight fit for the bulkhead.

Nice idea.  I’ll keep it in mind the next time I disassemble it.

Thanks!

Paul

Note: Denny’s setup is far easier and way less on the wallet. For my setup, I wented Stainless steel and Camlock connections for everything.

Below is what I did for my mash tun so I can have a SS 2-way ball valve with Camlock connection, while not crushing the insulation. Most people don’t need to go this route. I wanted to give a bit clearer directions so you won’t run into issues if you opt for adding the PVC pipe for stability.

Don’t cut into the inner wall of the cooler. Leaving the inner wall allows you to use the stock rubber gasket that came with the cooler so you don’t lose waterproofing. The bulkhead should fit through the stock washer.

1. Center the PVC pipe over the outer drain hole
2. Draw the outer diameter of the pipe with marker on the outside cooler wall at the drain hole, as tight as possible to the edge of the pipe. I’d recommend using a fine tip marker
3. Use a dremel or similar tool to cut along the inside of the marked circle. You can always trim away, but cannot put back!
4. Cut away the outer cooler wall’s plastic and begin to sculpt out the insulation foam to match the diameter. Don’t go through inner cooler wall!
5. Do a test fit, and adjust accordingly.
6. Once satisfied with a snug fit, use the marker on the PVC pipe where you need to cut so that the pipe length will be flush with the outer cooler wall.
7. Cut PVC pipe along the inside of the mark from Step 6. Again, better off erring on the side of cut less initially.
8. Do a test fit, and adjust accordingly.
9. Test fit the pipe, bulkhead with outer rubber gasket/o-ring, stock inner wall rubber gasket that came with the cooler.
10. Confirm everything fits nicely and doesn’t leak. For good measure, disassemble & toss some food grade/aquarium grade silicon around the PVC pipe, and then reassemble.

This took me all of 20 minutes once I gathered all parts and tools. Tip: Get the longer bulkhead for coolers.

[BrewBama (Dwain)]

I agree: Denny’s setup is far easier and way less on the wallet.

I use a bulkhead, bazooka tube, and three piece ball valve. It’s a pain to clean so I may replace it with a two piece ball valve. I get very nearly all the wort from the grain because I tilt the cooler by resting it on a 2x4 and also use a brew bag I lift when the lauter is nearly complete.

[jonhughey_att.net (HoosierBrew)]

@BrewBama

I use a bulkhead, bazooka tube, and three piece ball valve. It’s a pain to clean so I may replace it with a two piece ball valve. I get very nearly all the wort from the grain because I tilt the cooler by resting it on a 2x4 and also use a brew bag I lift when the lauter is nearly complete.

I put a brew bag in mine, too. Really liking the results - the wort is definitely clearer vs the braid. FWIW I took the braid out of my cooler. The bag is already a much finer filter than a braid or bazooka.

[a10t2]

@golfgod04

im brewing on a budget and i cant afford the bag too at this point.

If money’s that tight, why not buy just the bag and hold off on making a mash tun?

[larsmm]

@golfgod04

I already have the brass 1/2" ball valve and the brass barb for the outside. So I need the rod (I don’t know what you call it) that goes into the cooler. I need a washer for the outside, a gasket/oring for the inside, and a locking nut for the inside. A friend has a spare coupler and bazooka screen.

I have that pretty cooler, a stainless steel toilet line braid attached to a 12 mm silicone pipe, which gets tight enough in the drain hole (rubber mini-keg bung is not necessary) and a nylon valve. It works really well.

[denny]

@BrewBama

I use a bulkhead, bazooka tube, and three piece ball valve. It’s a pain to clean so I may replace it with a two piece ball valve. I get very nearly all the wort from the grain because I tilt the cooler by resting it on a 2x4 and also use a brew bag I lift when the lauter is nearly complete.

I put a brew bag in mine, too. Really liking the results - the wort is definitely clearer vs the braid. FWIW I took the braid out of my cooler. The bag is already a much finer filter than a braid or bazooka.

Yes, but that clarity from the mash makes no difference to the finished beer.

[jonhughey_att.net (HoosierBrew)]

@denny

@BrewBama

I use a bulkhead, bazooka tube, and three piece ball valve. It’s a pain to clean so I may replace it with a two piece ball valve. I get very nearly all the wort from the grain because I tilt the cooler by resting it on a 2x4 and also use a brew bag I lift when the lauter is nearly complete.

I put a brew bag in mine, too. Really liking the results - the wort is definitely clearer vs the braid. FWIW I took the braid out of my cooler. The bag is already a much finer filter than a braid or bazooka.

Yes, but that clarity from the mash makes no difference to the finished beer.

Overall, I like getting clearer wort into the fermenter when possible, Denny. Regardless, I like how the bag cuts my dead space to essentially zero, since I can hold it over away from the drain and get enough mash runnings to hit my target without any loss to dead space.

[denny]

Overall, I like getting clearer wort into the fermenter when possible, Denny. Regardless, I like how the bag cuts my dead space to essentially zero, since I can hold it over away from the drain and get enough mash runnings to hit my target without any loss to dead space.

If that’s what you want, it’s your choice.  I like to see clear wort, too, but I know if it’s not it won’t be a problem.  I have a bag for my cooler that I haven’t had a chance to use yet.  But I have no dead space now, so there should be no change from that.

[BrewBama (Dwain)]

@denny

Overall, I like getting clearer wort into the fermenter when possible, Denny. Regardless, I like how the bag cuts my dead space to essentially zero, since I can hold it over away from the drain and get enough mash runnings to hit my target without any loss to dead space.

If that’s what you want, it’s your choice.  I like to see clear wort, too, but I know if it’s not it won’t be a problem.  I have a bag for my cooler that I haven’t had a chance to use yet.  But I have no dead space now, so there should be no change from that.

I also do not have to vorlauf. Plus, ever since I started using the bag I get better efficiency so I use less grain to hit my target OG. I need to calculate when it will pay for itself and then actually save me money by using it.

[system]

@denny

@BrewBama

I use a bulkhead, bazooka tube, and three piece ball valve. It’s a pain to clean so I may replace it with a two piece ball valve. I get very nearly all the wort from the grain because I tilt the cooler by resting it on a 2x4 and also use a brew bag I lift when the lauter is nearly complete.

I put a brew bag in mine, too. Really liking the results - the wort is definitely clearer vs the braid. FWIW I took the braid out of my cooler. The bag is already a much finer filter than a braid or bazooka.

Yes, but that clarity from the mash makes no difference to the finished beer.

Do you have any data on that?  I ask because it’s widely known in commercial brewing that cloudy lautering and wort is full of lipids that oxidate beer. I personally myself have seen positive results from clear lautering.  So just curious.

[golfgod04]

i went the way of the cooler and parts because I already had some of the parts and friend had a spare. only thing i had to purchase was the long bulkhead threaded pipe.  in the future, I plan to get one of those cooler bags that was described above.

[denny]

Do you have any data on that?  I ask because it’s widely known in commercial brewing that cloudy lautering and wort is full of lipids that oxidate beer. I personally myself have seen positive results from clear lautering.  So just curious.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have my own brewing as data.  You can accept that or not as you choose.

[system]

@denny

Do you have any data on that?  I ask because it’s widely known in commercial brewing that cloudy lautering and wort is full of lipids that oxidate beer. I personally myself have seen positive results from clear lautering.  So just curious.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have my own brewing as data.  You can accept that or not as you choose.

Thats totally fine, but the way you shape your answers is that you are the authority on it as a whole. So just checking if you had the data show said claims. You know, since I am always asked to do so. ;D

[lenphallock]

That’s the one I used forever. Holds excellent temp and has a little indent where you drain helping you drain completely.

[brewsumore]

I dug out a 1 to 2 inch deep trench of the cooler’s foam insulation all around the drain hole between the cooler walls, and used plumber’s epoxy putty to cement in the correct-sized pipe nipple for my bulkhead, using a 1/2" ss ball valve connecting inside to a straight Bazooka Screen.

It is bulletproof drip free and completely solid in place, and drains like a champ.  The existing drain hole was fine on my 70-quart Coleman Extreme (I do 10-gal batches), and drains the cooler mashtun completely, when the cooler is propped up at the opposite end towards the end of runoff.

I bought 3 different length pipe nipples in advance to make sure I got one that fit the best upon inspection.

[fergusyarrow]

@golfgod04

Has anyone converted this https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-52-Quart-Xtreme-Cooler/dp/B000G33YWM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483547976&sr=8-1&keywords=52+quart+coleman+extreme+cooler cooler to a mash tun? I’ve seen other conversions but not for this one specifically.

Yep, I have one. I used a braid with a bulkhead/valve conversion for years. I recently pulled the braid in favor of one of these - love the results so far.

Mash Tun Filter for Coolers (Brew Bag) - Reusable - The Brew Bag®

I am curious; did you keep the braid when you got the bag? I got the same bag last week, and putting together a new cooler and am wondering if I need to bother with the braid at all?

Cheers,

Fergus