Thanx oginme, kind of exactly what I was looking to hear. Not sold on it yet, but it’s sounding like a great solution
I have the 10.5 gallon version. The short answer is yes, I’d recommend it, with the caveat that it isn’t a fully automated system. However, it provides excellent control for what I want to do. Being able to set the power in 1% increments (probably a duty cycle controller) is great, especially given the low but precise power needed for boiling with the steam slayer. The controls are easy to use (sure, you have to bend over to use the control panel) and the delay timer and temperature set point that turns the heat on and off work very well. I didn’t buy the pump since I already had a few, but I do recirculate. I haven’t had to change recipes really, other than figuring out what the kettle losses and boil off would be for a 5 gallon batch.
As mentioned above, getting the crush right has taken a little bit of experimentation. I don’t think it would matter at all if you were just doing a single infusion, but for recirculating I want to limit grain husks coming through the basket or restricting the flow. I’ve considered using a BIAB mesh but held off so far since it will be another thing to clean. I’m aiming for about 3/4 - 1 gal / minute recirculation rate. I think less aggressive stirring / clump breaking is helping, vs cooler batch sparging where I can stir the crap out of it. I’m also still trying to perfect the whirlpool (I use this Spincycle Overboard, No-Drill Kettle Whirlpool Return) but so far it’s been “good enough” for great beer.
So it looks like the newest edition has moved the control panel to near the top of the unit. Just what everyone was wishing for. If this cold weather hangs out, I’m grabbing a Foundry
And use 1/2 the current than a 120 VAC system.
If you went BIAB you could really downsize the amount of equipment and lugging. Go 240V if at all possible. One of the all in one BIAB systems (like the foundry) would be a great thing.
If you are adventurous and knowledgeable, you could convert your 15 gallon boil kettle to electric with a 5500 watt element. You could build an inexpensive simple 240v controller with an Inkbird, MyPIN or Auber PID for probably under $150, if you took the time to really source out the parts and can solder.
If you try induction, this would eliminate the controller, but you would need a good thermometer for mashing. You also need to make sure your kettle is induction capable. I was given a couple 1800w, 120V induction cooktops from Aldi and they are not very accurate and temp is set at 20 degree intervals. I tried to boil a 3 gallon batch and getting more than 4 or 5 gallons of water to boil is almost impossible. I ended up heating it initially with the cooktop and a 120v heatstick. I would get a 240V induction cooktop for sure.
I love your ventilation hood. That is on my list. I brew in a basement workshop. It has a bathroom exhaust fan that doesn’t seem to do much and a floor drain that works great. That fan is right over where the city water comes into my house. In the coming months, I’ll have a cold water spigot, ventilation hood cobbled from ductwork, and 240v outlet in that spot. Hot water is a taller order, but a 5500w kettle makes hot water pretty quick. I’m currently running a cord all the way from my dryer outlet on the other side of the basement, and schlepping 5 gallon buckets of water for wort and cooling,
The price of the Anvil makes it very intriguing. I think though I should get a 240 outlet and a powerful heat source in a hot plate type set up, if possible. I want to be able to put multiple types of vessels on it so not a built in immersible type. Not induction as I need to use both copper and SS on it. Anyone know of a good heat source?