If you live on either coast, your well water should be find for brewing. If you live in one of the flyover states, then you are probably better off using RO.
Concerning Process: I’d strongly consider brew-in-a-bag for your first batch.
My progression was Mr.Beer → Extract Kit → BIAB → half assed fly sparging → Batch Sparge → now back to BIAB.
It’s super simple and leaves you with less stuff to clean, although batch sparging is almost as easy.
For recipe formulation: As mentioned keeping it simple with 1-3 grains can keep your beer from getting too muddled. And using BeerSmith has helped me out a lot.
For Water: Martin’s software Brun Water is awesome so I would eventually pick up that when you know what’s in your water and want to delve into it. I suppose I’d either ignore everything for now or better yet get a pH meter, some lactic acid, and a medicine dropper. That way you could take the pH 10m into the mash and adjust it with acid if need be. Or just get some RO from the grocery store and the accu-mash stuff if it’s easier.
submerging it in a larger tub with a couple of ice packs might do the trick for you. or move it around as needed. I used to start my ales on the bottom step of my basement stairs and then slowly move it up the stairs when I wanted to ramp the temperature. this was when it was pretty cool down there though - not sure what you situation is like.
The easiest way is to get a large plastic tub and fill it with water and set the carboy or bucket into it. You can also add frozen 2 liter bottles to get the temp lower than room temp if needed.
I’m on a well also and I only need to do minimal treatment, but it depends on your water. Go to wardlab.com and get test W-6. Skip the homebrewer test…it has info you don’t need and costs more.
Oops, missed that part. Yeah, that won’t work. It’ll have to be wet towels with an AC vent (or fan) pointing at it or rigging some sort of ice pack solution.
The Homebrew test from Ward might be worth it in the Great Lakes area, where the well water has a lot of iron. One could guess that from the stains it leaves on plumbing fixtures. My towns tap water is from wells, but they have a green sand facility that removes the iron.
Yeah thats a common problem. My well water is actually very low TDS except there is a low amount of iron in it. I have never found anything definitive about how much is too is too much iron or how to remove it so I just use RO.
and I live in midwest where iron can be an issue- yet its not in my well. my issue is the sodium and alkalinity. had to use tons of lactic acid to drop PH.
once you feel like it-get the water report.
my well water:
pH 8.0
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 283
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.47
Cations / Anions, me/L 5.3 / 5.4
ppm
Sodium, Na 114
Potassium, K 2
Calcium, Ca 4
Magnesium, Mg 1
Total Hardness, CaCO3 14
Nitrate, NO3-N 0.1 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 3
Chloride, Cl 3
Carbonate,CO3 6
Bicarbonate, HCO3 297
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 253
I looks like someone dumped a ton of sodium bicarbonate into your well.
For those on wells, the U.S. Geological Survey sites contains a wealth of information with respect to one’s soil and the rock formation that underlies one’s house. Knowing the rock formation under one’s house will tell one what minerals may be in one’s water without having to send a sample off Ward Labs. For example, my house lies on metamorphic rock. Metamorphic rocks do not contribute much in the way of minerals to one’s water. My water is soft and acidic coming out of the ground. Now, properties a few miles to the Northwest of me are on a dolamite formation. Their water is alkaline with a good amount of Ca and Mg.
I looks like you may be sitting on an oil shale formation. Sodium bicarbonate is found in nature as the mineral nahcolite. Nahcolite and oil shale appear to go together like peanut butter and jelly.