Couple methods that seem to work well for that “juicy” character.
1.) High Chloride to Sulfate ratio (Opposite of what we would typically do)
2.) Flaked wheat or oats (up to 10%)
3.) Yeast that leave a slight ester (Gigayeast Vermont Ale, Omega DIPA)
4.) Most, if not all hops added between whirlpool and dry hop (Stick with tropical fruit forward hops such as Citra, Mosaic, Galaxy, etc…)
5.) Drink fresh!!
The recipe for the kit should make a hop juice beer.
All the flavor hops (8oz) are added at flame out and steeped. The dry hop is 5.5oz.
Using Vermont ale yeast instead of so-5 will make it more fruity.
It should still be juicy without being obsessive about eliminating DO, but do whatever you can to reduce oxygen exposure, especially post fermentation.
wouldn’t it be easier for you to list the breweries actually using it? You seem a little worked up. Maybe step away from the computer for a little bit and collect yourself bud.
I made a perfectly juicy pale ale with equal parts Chinook, Columbus, Simcoe, and Centennial in the whirlpool and dry. The same varieties reported to be in Hill Farmstead’s Edward. That beer was cold crashed several days and perfectly clear (as you would expect from the high floccing yeast I used, 1318) before any dry hops were introduced. Suggesting biotransformation is not the cause for these flavors, and certainly not yeast in suspension. The flavors aren’t completely the same as you normally get from these hops used in the traditional way IME.
I’ve been attempting to brew hazy “juice” bombs for my past 4 brews or so and have had great results per personal preference. I have been using Wyeast London ale III (1318) for yeast. Ive added hops early (60) in the boil and late (10) but have gotten better results when adding them in late. I prefer fresh IPA’s with low bitterness and have found to achieve a NEIPA type brew, just whirlpool a load of hops (I usually will cool to 160 and WP for 20 minutes) and a ton of dry hopping in primary and in keg. I dont add any kind of fining agents and dont want to be able to see my hand or fingers through the glass. Its been working for me.
I am no expert on the “LODO” issue but if you minimize the time for oxygen to enter the primary/secondary/keg it shouldn’t be a huge issue. However I have seen the SRM on some of my brews change significantly (looking like pond water) when using rice hulls.
I have done both the “biotrans” and standard dry hop methods and have observed negligible results. I dry hopped ~60-70% complete and at day 10 respectively on a 14 day brew and both have had great results for the taste and appearance.
I am however still searching for a recipe that will results in what looks like you poured tropicana orange juice in a glass reminiscent of brews from omnipollo, noble ale works, highland park— especially omnipollo! I think it’s just filters from photo software ;D. Ive used combinations of 2-row, red wheat, flaked oats, flaked barley, C-40, carapils, honey malt, oat malt, Munich I and II you name it. Any and all suggestions would be great!
There is a fundamentally flawed thing going on here that no one seems to want to address:
The OP asked for an opinion and one was given. It went downhill from there. Does anyone recognize why?
To the OP, there is some merit to Bryan’s post if you research the methods being used at Hill Farmstead, Alchemist, etc. See through the noise and realize his opinion was meant to help you in particular, not start nonsense with other posters.
his post offered no valuable direct insight and instead vaguely mentioned LODO. Which is why I asked, “why not just say dry hop at high krausen”. And some of the “proof” I’ve seen posted that show those breweries are using Kunze’s methodology include seeing a copy of his book in a video and a spunding valve.
Owning a book does not equal adherence to said books methodology. I’m sure we all own some brewing books we gleam insight from and disregard other bits of information in them, and spunding valves are widely used in many breweries for reasons other than to limit oxygen ingress.