I closed transfer using the gravity method pictured but 1) let it ferment down too much due to failed fast ferment test, and 2) forgot to seal the keg with CO2 pressure. (Don’t forget that last step.)
To correct my mistake I plan to take head pressure and temp of keg, weight the keg, subtract the tare weight of the keg to get beer weight in kg, then use Kai’s Carb tables to add sugar prime to (hopefully) end up with correct carb level. I’ll use a gas out quick disconnect and a syringe to adding the sugar solution.
^^^^
Remove the gas post and inject is how I add finings (all I ever add) – don’t forget to pull the PRV when injecting stuff through the gas side – and a quick burst of gas afterward means virtually nil O2 pickup. I wonder if the OP’s question about hopping could be addressed this way – a slurry of beer and hops or lupulin injected?
As in, as low as practically possible while adding anything. If you can introduce finings (or any thing else), ideally with positive CO2 on the keg or tank, and follow with a purge, air will not be introduced in (practically) measurable amounts, nor remain but momentarily; the only significant O2 introduced will be in the finings (etc) themselves (very little in fact, but the choice to introduce it must be considered with a view to total O2 throughout the brewing process: is there room left?) I just can’t think of a better procedure for introducing it. If you have a better procedure for introducing something into the keg, many of us, I’m sure, would be eager to hear it.
My answer would be, you don’t have to. Its a problem in search of a solution.
Tightening up brewing practices can yield beer as clear if not clearer than any fined/filtered beers in the same amount of time.
I have the DO readings to show what you recommend does indeed add ppb’s of o2 to the beer. In my brewing methods and procedures, I try and avoid any o2 pickup.
Ultimately though its up to the person to see if the “pickup” translates to anything for the person.
Me? Used to, found a couple of difficulties. With isinglass finings, there can be small particles that can clog my syringe (the meat marinating type without the needle on.) Plus, it’s one extra step drawing into the syringe. I found that a turkey baster (no bulb) makes a perfect funnel fitting the gas port with the post and dip removed, I just pour finings in from my measuring cup. I also found that to be sure I’m not drawing air in with the flow, a positive purge is really easy: just very gently bubble gas in through the liquid side (restrict flow with the little ball valve on the regulator or manifold.) Keep the PRV open and you can get the flow just right to not splatter the stuff back out. The bubbling probably also helps to start mixing the finings. Then gas post back, PRV shut, pressure up, purge a couple of cycles for good measure.
You won’t be the first to do this. Basically you start with two holes in the lid…helpful, right? There are surely posts and videos out there to help. One thing to remember: with glass, never apply more than 1-2psi. I used to use glass carboys, and the paranoia about this was one reason I switched. But just be careful, even that low pressure is plenty to move beer – when you think about it, it’s like a lot of weight plunging down on your beer. Good luck with the project!
There are surely posts and videos out there to help. One thing to remember: with glass, never apply more than 1-2psi. I used to use glass carboys, and the paranoia about this was one reason I switched. But just be careful, even that low pressure is plenty to move beer – when you think about it, it’s like a lot of weight plunging down on your beer. Good luck with the project!