+1
LOOK AT THIS NIGHTMARE
For the record, the commercial brew is unfiltered, so even it has a little haze about it.
Mine on left (all Briess Pale 2-Row), commercial version on right. I realize the light here sucks, but you don’t need sunlight and a special vessel to see the obvious color issue. The shot of my beer is even a little over-exposed (see how bright countertop is), so that means in person it’s even a little darker than it appears here.
Some of the haze goes away when it warms a bit, but that doesn’t say anything about how dark this beer turned out using one grain as pale as the one used.
:-\
http://s8.postimg.org/scadz2m3p/IMG_0464.jpg
That’s PALE 2-ROW!
Broken link
Weird.
See if this direct link works. I don’t have anywhere to host images, so I’m having to use some wonky service.
Did you brew with Briess 2-Row Brewers Malt (1.8 L) or Briess Pale Ale Malt (3.5 L)? Your post says Pale 2-Row. There is a big difference in color. If you used the Pale ale malt and got a dark lot you could end up with a pretty dark beer (not 9 SRM though).
Just a thought.
some of that is chill haze which can be pH related combined with the increased color extraction Martin mentions, the possible darker pale ale malt, and some remaining yeast in suspension (which can be related to water issues as well)
I’m leaning towards water as the culprit. easy test though, brew a batch with distilled or RO water and see if the problem continues. Download bru’n water and make sure you hit a solid 5.4 predicted pH and you should be good.
As I was purchasing my grain the guy at the shop was like, “Hey, ya want to buy the 3.5 just to add a little color?” I was very specific I wanted the lighter grain, but for all I know he sold me the 3.5 anyway. We totally had a conversation about the two though, and that’s funny you mention that. if he did that to me, he’s an a**hole considering the madness he’s caused me. 
If I wanted to experiment with my water, how important is it to heat the water? If necessary, would I just heat an average mash volume to an estimated strike temp? Is it necessary for grain to be present if I’m only looking to experiment with pH?
yes it is totally necessary. you are concerned with mash pH which is heavily influenced by the grist. Download the bru’n water spreadsheet and look it over. it has a lot of good info on water chemistry for brewing and what is important.
The basics are that the phytins (sp?) in the grain are going to react with the calcium either already present in the water or added by the brewer, to knock out alkalinity in the mixture (alkalinity is the real enemy here) otherwise that alkalinity will react with the grain and extract unpleasant flavors and, apparently, colors.
You may also have to add an organic or inorganic acid (lactic or phosphoric are the favorites) to fine tune your pH and knock down the last of the unwanted alkalinity. This is particularly true with lighter colored beers.
Then again you may find, with some darker beers, that you need to add alkalinity.
I am so in love with this forum. I don’t even think it’s been 24 hours I’ve been a member. You guys are the best!
If your water ph were high enough to extract tannins sufficient to color the beer to that level, I’d expect to be able to taste that, but you report that the beer tastes good. So, maybe my assumption about being able to taste that level of tannins is incorrect? The only time I tasted tannins in a homebrew, the beer had been served in one of those red plastic traveller cups, so I couldn’t see the color.
tannins can bind with certain phenols and clump causing darkening due to refraction. just like yeast.