Commercial breweries whirlpool, let settle, and run off through the chiller. That can take an hour or more before all the wort is to the fermenter. Adding hops at some point in the process will add more flavor, some aroma, and some bitterness. When the hops are added is one of those topics that if you ask 10 homebrewers you get 15 answers.
That’s my MO for IPAs now, shorter whirlpool for APA. Results are pretty darn good!
Chum, like you, I do not have a pump. I’ve been adding the “whirlpool” hops and then just mainly steeping for half an hour, with a few stirs here and there as I do some cleanup. I like the whirlpool step, as it allows me to sanitize a fermenter and put away all the rest of my brewing gear. I’m late to the game and have only recently started this. My last IPA was wicked good, and I have no reason to expect anything different from the APA bubbling away. Cheers!
Yeah, FWIW my “whirlpool” hopping comes with quotes. I don’t have a pump either, so it’s really a steep (or hopstand) where I uncover the pot every few minutes to gently stir. However my back is telling me that pump is in the near future. 
Hoping not to start a major thread derail here, but what’s the LoDO method of whirlpool hopping?
My pump is probably the single best investment for my set up. I use it for all transfers. Safer and saves my back.
Using a pump will pick up very little DO if any.
What did you do for bittering with whirlpool additions like that? What did you target for a bittering addition?
Can’t speak for Keith but, since I do something similar for hoppy American beers, I’ll tell you what I do. I add my target IBU as a 60 minute addition - if I want 42 IBU in an APA, then I add 42 IBU of my bittering hop at 60. If I want 70 IBU for an AIPA, I add 70 IBU @ 60. Then add all the late hops I’d have added to the boil in a 175-170F stand/whirlpool. Thing is, provided you whirlpool after cooling to below 190ish ( as said, I like 175-170F), you won’t pick up much or any noticeable bitterness from the whirlpool. I like being able to control the bitterness while getting better flavor/aroma IMO. Give it a try, it makes a damn good beer!
Thanks Hoosier, I have done a couple hop stands, but never more than 20 mins I do not think. I have seen at least 30 min to 60 mins for Pale Ales to IPA’s. The first hop stand I did was for a Cream Ale, did some Saaz and Willamette as a hop stand with no other flavor/aroma additions to get a feel for what it brings. Been wanting to try more hop stands for hoppy beers but never sure what to do with the bittering addition. That makes sense to do a typical bittering charge and with the lower whirlpool addition to focus on flavor/aroma at lower temps.
I just bitter to my targeted BUs at whatever time addition I want. For instance you can add all your bittering addition at 20 minutes and target, say, 50 BUs and then do all your WP hops at 175 if you like.
One of the fun things I have experimented with on the Pico Zymatic is multiple WP hops. For instance, you can have as many WP hop additions at whatever target temp you want. You could target 185 for 60 minutes, then 175 for 60 minutes, then 165 for 60 minutes ad infinitum. Heck you could do an over night hops stand if you wanted. I have played around with some fun stuff like that, problem is it only makes 2.5 gallons at a time. :-\
Thanks, Ill be trying this on my next IPA. I havent gone longer than 20 mins nor have I tried adding all of my late hops only as a hop stand for a hoppy beer.
Whats a typical amount of hops to start with for a 5-6 gal batch of IPA when going with a long whirlpool or hop stand?
It depends on your approach. Like I posted, I add all the hops I would normally have added late in the boil to the whirlpool/steep.
Edit - For me, I add 4-5 oz to steep for APA, 8-10 oz for AIPA (given 5.5 gallons postboil). Just personal preference.
My typical whirlpool addition for my house IPA is around 5.5 ounces of hops at 175° for 30 minutes. For This beer, I do not dry hop.
My approach is similar. I’ve tried to get away from dry-hopping. The O2 pick up from the dry hop is kind of catch 22. The aroma is hard to replace, but kills my shelf life. The whirlpool kind of puts the beer in the middle.
Sounds good guys, thanks. I just wanted to make sure I was in tbe ballpark, those are amounts I was thinking to start with.
Working on this. I don’t think it’s the O2 at DH but the O2 at kegging. Me and a few others are having success with ascorbic acid at kegging. I may also do a blend of SMB/PMB and AA (DIY antiox c Antiox C® - 10 lb | BSG | Bulk Brewing & Beer Supply Company). From memory PMB/SMB is fast acting and AA is slower so you get best of both worlds. Also be sure beer is completely bright/crash it prior to dry hop.
I’ve tried it many ways and they all work to a degree but I prefer a hot WP for 30m stirred as often as you can (stirring is the key).
Could be the keg too. I’d rather give up a little, and not dry hop. I’ve thought about the additions though.
Thanks for that link, interesting product. DIY is probably easier than finding it.