Three Brewing Methods

General Homebrew Discussion
21

I couldn’t help myself and had to try an all DME brew.
Keeping an open mind, but being realistic at the same time.
After about 2 weeks before bottling, I’ll test taste before doing so.
If good, ok, or so-so it will be bottled, if not it will be dumped.
My pipeline can take a hit and recover.

Cheers

22

meanwhile, over at HomeBrewTalk:

[1] the recipe: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/blasphemy-no-boil-neipa.660389/page-8#post-10212177

[2] the ribbon: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/blasphemy-no-boil-neipa.660389/page-8#post-10227388

There’s more, as the recipe was scaled up and released commercially.

23

Williams Amber/Red LME:

  • I had a good first experience with their LMEs  (Pale Ale, American Amber, and Nut Brown).  Ordered on a Sunday in late March, shipped on Monday, arrived the following Monday due to a snow storm in the Rocky Mountains.  All three of the LMEs were of good quality (appropriate color) and made good beers for a 1st attempt with the ingredient.
  • Aside: Williams apparently makes both an American Amber LME (which I ordered, but is not listed on their web site today) and an American Red LME (which is listed on their web site today).

Muntons Amber Spray Malt:

Briess Amber DME:

  • I find that Briess Amber DME makes a nice session or normal strength American Amber.  No need for steeping malts in this OG range.
  • Above about OG 55 (Red IPA and Imperial Red styles), I tend to add sugar and/or Brewers Crystals for ‘best’ results.
  • Sugar adds OG (but no FG).
  • Brewers Crystals add both OG and FG.
  • Sugar and Brewers Crystals [probably] have no sodium; so using them effectively “dilutes (in a good way)” the mineral content in the DME.
  • A “short and shoddy” cold steep (30 min in a side pot while the main kettle is heating) can add back some color / flavor.
24

Thanks.
My thoughts, barely bring to boil, turn off heat, toss in hops along the way as it’s naturally cooling down.
In about 2 weeks an early taste will determine where my DME adventures go.

Cheers

25

Basic Brewing Radio did something similar with their “hop sampler” series; but they were working with 3/4 gal wort and in 1 gal carboys.  When I tried it, the time from boiling to about 175 was probably in the 10 min range.

With larger batches, natural cooling to 175 will likely take longer - and ‘boil off’ more of the hop oils.

26

noboil NEIPA?

lol enjoy exploding bottles or kegs unless you estimate FG and carbonation VERY carefully.

27

As noted in the topic, with the “no boil” NEIPA process, the wort is pasteurized as part of the process.

I’ve done it a number of times over the last 3 or 4 years.  No bombs, no gushers, no worries.

28

quote -“alpha acids isomerize at temperatures above 175 °F”

I had thought of that for calculating IBU.
A SS stock pot with an aluminum encapsulated bottom is used, thick and heavy bottom.
It heats the bottom evenly quote - " Aluminum dissipates heat 15x better than
stainless, spreading it faster and more freely, this reduces hot spots"
Helps prevent scorching, but not sure how long this pot would take to hit 175, which I guess would
need to be known to calculate IBU.  I wouldn’t let it cool down all the way, just enough
to get hop utilization, but also cooled enough so when chilled water is added it’s within yeast
pitching temps.

Cheers

29

It was the classic way to brew in the old days.

30

DME LME and steeping grains were my approach until briefly all grain fly sparging…then I found Dennybrew and batch sparging and finally brew in a bag/single vessel.  Evolution of homebrew - it doesn’t mean we have to fully abandon the old ways.  I batch sparge more frequently now than ever.

31

I continue to batch sparge in my G40…old and new

32

It may take a number of attempts to “dial in” a process (and a couple of additional attempts to confirm the process).  Add “room temperature” to your brew day notes as room temperature may have some impact on the cool down rate.

33

I’m going to guess that you are referring to brewing raw ales.

====================================================
moving to a more general context

The recent ‘no boil’ NEIPA process is essentially a hop steep, DME, flavor salt additions, and a hazy friendly yeast strain.  And for the award winning recipes, the brewer is contributing deep knowledge in hop selection, fermentation temperature control, and packaging.

Is this one of the the brewing processes that could be considered “advanced extract brewing”?

34

Tangent alert

IMHO, NEIPAs do not require “deep knowledge in hop selection”. Varietal flavor and aroma profiles are pretty much completely washed out at the hopping levels in the style. Saturated hop oil character tastes and smells pretty much the same past a certain point, regardless of whether you used Mosaic, Galaxy, Citra or any other oil-heavy hop to get there.

Now hop format (pellet vs lupulin hop vs various extracts) certainly makes a difference, but nuance in vatietal character is lost beyond a certain hopping rate.

35

I’m referring to hopped liquid extract, which was the standard 30 years ago.

36

Things I learned today: Hopped extract LME was (is?) a product.

37

Oh yeah, particularly with the old “kit and kilo” style kits since the idea behind those was to make the process as rock stupid simple as possible. (See John Bull as an example).

It’s never been as common, at least here in the States, to find bulk pre-hopped LME, but those kits were all over the place back before there were more ingredients available.

38

For a long time, it was the standard way to homebrew

39

I used some of those in the early 90’s. Since I had been drinking only American macro beer, the homebrew seemed really tasty.

40

I see you point - and agree with it.  Thanks!