When this stuff came out a few years back I tried it but never added it permanently to my process. I find water additions when doing all-grain to be a fun part of brewing. Besides, I don’t add salts simply for the pH adjustments, there is also a flavor component involved.
When I started doing a few partial mashes this year it occurred to me that I really have no idea what the mineral carryover from the extract is going to be so I hesitate to add my normal brewing salts for fear of not knowing what the ending quantities will be in the finished product. Also, with the high proportion of specialty malt to base grain in most partial mash recipes I think it’s hard to accurately calculate the pH adjustment that salts will cause.
For these reasons above, the 5.2 stablizer is back in my life. I find tha it is a good product to use when you are unsure of some of the water chemistry variables which often happens during partial mash.
Limited use so far (5 5gallon batches) but I’d say it’s working ok. I’d also point out that my water out of the tap is very soft. It seemed to work better on the darker beers I made. I made a few lighter beers that didn’t have any caramel or roasted malt and for those I did add a few ml of lactic to dial in the mash pH at around 5.4 measured at room temp.
Some have said in the past that there is an off flavor added by the 5.2 but I would point out that I entered a few of these extracts in a recent BJCP event and they were medal winners.
If you have soft water and you are using it for dark beers, it works all right, in my experience. But if you are using hard water already, or you are trying to acidify your mash, 5.2 will not work. IMO, it’s no easier (and less effective) than just doing the math with Bru’n Water and building your water from scratch.
What James says makes sense to me, as far as partial mashes are concerned, though I suspect Bru’n Water could still help you figure out what you need to do there (presumably adding acid or chalk to the mash).
I think you are probably right but I am more concerned with the mineral levels in the finished beer since those salts will probably carry over. I am guessing that because of the high specialty malt level I might have to add a lot of salts to adjust pH. I am worried that when these salts move to the boil along with my water’s minerals, and the unknown amount of minerals in the extract - that the mineral levels in the finished beer might be too high.
Yeah, the pH I quoted is after the 5.2 stablizer. What I didn’t do (because I initially wasn’t intending to do an experiment) was check the pH before I added the 5.2 inorder to calculate the shift it created. That might be a good next test the next few times that I use it.
Mineral levels in quality extracts are already at optimum levels…No need to add pixie dust.
I recently wanted to buy a pH meter.
I walked into one of my local shops & requested to see their meters.
One of the guys behind the counter said “Oh, you need some 5.2”, to which I replied, “No…I don’t put things in my beer that don’t show the exact contents, on the label…I build my water”.
He looked almost angry & told me that a pH meter was a waste of my money & that I “need” 5.2 stabilizer.
Thankfully, I don’t shop there on a regular basis.
When I moved into Denver and started using its soft water, I tried some 5.2 in a porter. The mash pH started at 4.90. I added 1 T of 5.2, stirred and let it rest for a few minutes and the pH was 4.90. A 2nd T had the same result. A third T (I don’t know why) raised it all the way up to 4.94. So, in my experinece, it doesn’t work for soft water and dark beers.
That is a surprise. The chemistry of that product should have supplied buffers that would actually raise the mash pH. It tends to buffer into a pH of around 5.8 according to some research by Troester.
Yes, as I said in the original post - when I do a partial mash where I’m more interested in mash pH and not so much in mineral content - I find it very useful. Partial mashes have some whacky grist ratio’s and it works for me to consistently come in around 5.4
Was thinking of adding this to my partial mash batches. Would this be wise with bottled water? Think I’m going to ask for a refractometer and pH meter for christmas lol.
Most litmus strips are pathetic and leave you somewhat unsure compared to a digital meter.
If you are measuring mash pH is it to confirm your calculations/expectations based on the water build and grain-bill? Or with an eye to correct any variances with acid or base on the spot?
IMO the former is to confirm the science and the latter is the most practical aspect of measuring mash pH.
I think many of us are just attempting to gain an understanding of what’s really going on, in the mash & have read so much about pH that we want to see the entire process.
Personally, I have found that my pH is often nearly dead on, without doing much (after the fact) adjustment.
The meter has confirmed that, while many of the test strips that I have bought were extremely inaccurate & led me to believe there were problems.
I’m done putting my trust in paper strips.