Tell you what. I have a gizmo that reads co2 volumes. This will be an easy test. Let you know soon.
Please do! I hooked up two kegs, one each way, and hit them with the same pressure for the same time. But all I had to evaluate them was my own impressions. This may be the ONE time I was wrong! 
Please do! I hooked up two kegs, one each way, and hit them with the same pressure for the same time. But all I had to evaluate them was my own impressions. This may be the ONE time I was wrong!
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Denny wrong?!?! Nah, I don’t believe it.
Did you shake them or just give them time? Here’s the thing, if you have top pressure on the beer and are bubbling Co2 up from the bottom it’s going to stay in the liquid more readily as opposed to trying to force it down from the top. But if you do it over, say, a week, it may not make as much difference.
I think I shook them. It’s been so long since I did the in through the out thing that I don’t recall, but that’s always been my SOP. These days I just let them sit at about 30 psi at room temp for a few days. Shaking was too much work! Believe me, I understand the theory. It’s just that reality didn’t bear it out for me.
You “think” you shook them. Boy, doesn’t get more scientific than that! 
I’m pretty sure I did. Whatever I did, it was the same for both other than the poppet I used to introduce CO2.
The thing is, if you pick up the keg and old it horizontally and shake it, it doesn’t make any difference which port the gas is going into. They’re both below the surface of the liquid.
When I did the shaking, I would lay the keg on the floor and roll it back and forth.
So you didn’t actually shake it, you rolled it. You’re in the music business, what if you had rattled it?
Would the gas and liquid ports still be below the surface?
Oooh, shake, rattle and roll…the Bill Haley method!
Yep, they were definitely submerged. FWIW, I recall also trying it by shaking them standing up and still didn’t see a difference.
So I believe I finally figured all this out but have additional questions:
This last batch I both bottled and kegged. Both the keg and the bottles have been conditioned and refrigerated for the same amount of time at the same temperature. My bottles are pouring crystal clear, commercial quality pours. My keg is tapping cloudy and it is not simply chill haze.
I am still getting a little too much foam and I have 5’ of liquid line. My taps are approximately 3’ to the center of the keg. For this issue I am assuming I should lengthen the lines, perhaps to 7-8’? The pour is kind of quick and the lines are 3/16 ID. They are refrigerated from keg to tower completely.
I noticed with my first keg that the dip tube goes basically all the way down almost into the little recess in the bottom of the keg. Is it possible that I am continuously sucking up trub each time I tap? Should I have cut the dip tube a little shorter to leave a little more space and avoid this suck up of sediment?
Appreciate the continued help!
more line or less push should help with the foamy pour. I suspect you are correct about the cloudiness. it should clear up eventually.
I would have thought so to on the cloudiness but it has been almost 2 weeks at 39F like an extended cold crash and still cloudy, even after consecutive pours, that’s why I asked about dip tube length. I don’t think line length would really fix that issue as the beer in the lines is cloudy as well.
line length is for the foamy not the cloudy. you can shorten the dip tube but I find that eventually the sediment clears if its that. I suppose the keg could be infected so new sediment is being deposited all the time. or there is just a lot in which case shorten the tube and/or transfer to a clean keg.
No infection, other than the cloudiness the beer tastes and smells awesome so once it’s kicked I’ll look at what’s in there and go from there, thanks!
Here’s a great manual that covers most of what you’ll need for kegging, serving and maintaining your draught system.
Thanks, I’ll give that a read!
That’s a great resource but raised another question. I have read many people keep the Co2 tank in the kegerator but this guide states that should not be done with no reason listed as to why? So why is this not recommended? Mine is inside, does it really matter?
Because you can fit more kegs in the kegerator if you don’t store the co2 bottle in it ;). At least that’s my reason!