In my system, the beer finishes in less than 2 weeks time (often 7-8 days) from boil to kegged under CO2 purged transfer. If not crystal clear, then nearing it and only needing a couple days at 30F. Again, I rack off the top of the primary fermenter with a floating dip tube, so the first keg (or portion of the only keg, if 5 gallons) is typically pretty clear.
YMMV, of course, so if you have a conical and want to dump trub and then harvest yeast, go for it. There are many ways to get great beer made.
I just bought a conical and cannot get it to hold pressure. I lose a 5psi pressure in about 4 hours. Should a conical hold pressure indefinitely or should the fermentation process make up for this rate of loss? I can’t find any obvious source of a leak.
I have two SS Brewtech fermenters, a half barrel one and a 7.5 gallon one. Both hold pressure but SS Brewtech recommends not to exceed about 15 PSI. The half barrel one has a PRV on it to vent any excess over-pressure, the 7.5 gallon one does not. If the gasket gets worn, the fermenter will leak pressure.
I do not ferment under pressure, I only pressurize the fermenters to about 1-2 PSI after fermentation is complete to help drop the yeast into the cone, after dry hopping to help settle the hop residue into the cone, and when doing a closed transfer of the finished beer into kegs when packaging.
Assuming the conical is rated for pressure, yes it should hold constant pressure. All triclovers should be tightened at least one turn, no more than 2, past hand tight. If it has a band clamp these are annoying to set, get it hand tight, then take a mallet and tap starting oppisite side from the screw, tapping medium, not too hard, against the side of the clamp. around the rim towards the screw. Do both sides, and the screw will be able to be tightened more. Repeat this 5 times.
Also make sure the prv is closed, some of those with a pull ring can get stuck in the release position
I have two Blichmann 7 gal. conical and I’m very happy with them from many aspects. They are indeed expensive but I’m able to absorb the expense. I’m happy with ability to harvest yeast/drop trub cleanly and easily and it’s pressure cabability were a game changer for me personally. I can easily hold pressure indefinitely up to the 15 psig set point of the relief valve on the vessel. And yes a good properly maintained fermentation vessel should be entirely pressure cable over time without leakage. I’ve used them at atmospheric pressure, and to naturally carbonate my most recent German Pilsner under pressure. Both methods are easily achievable for me. The ability to pressurize for any number of reasons from natural carbonation, to a slight pressure head to prevent atmospheric “suck back” during cold crashing with a spunding valve, or simplified pressurized closed transfer to a keg a perfect choice for me. I also have mine paired width a glycol chiller & immersion cooling coil in the fermenter. I couldn’t be happier with my decision. Remember though, opinions are like sphincters. Everybody’s got one. Do what works for you.