Decant

[system]

How do you dislodge the yeast that’s tightly packed on bottom of fermenter ?
(taking nothing for granted)

Thanks

[BrewBama (Dwain)]

How do you dislodge the yeast that’s tightly packed on bottom of fermenter ?
(taking nothing for granted)

Thanks

I swirl it around and dump it in glass canning jars.

Disclaimer: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. I am not paid or sponsored by anyone. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

[system]

@BrewBama

How do you dislodge the yeast that’s tightly packed on bottom of fermenter ?
(taking nothing for granted)

Thanks

I swirl it around and dump it in glass canning jars.

That’s what I thought, thanks !

Cheers

[system]

@BrewBama

Per WYeast:

REPITCHING BY WEIGHT OR VOLUME:

Estimates of cell counts can be made using percent yeast solids of the slurry. Percentage of yeast solids per volume of slurry can be estimated by allowing a sample to sediment under refrigeration and estimating the percent solids. Generally 40-60% yeast solids will correlate to 1.2 billion cells per mL. This will vary with the yeast strain. By using this method with every brew, a brewer can achieve consistent pitch rates batch to batch resulting in a more consistent product.

Once the brewer has determined the desired pitch rate and cell density of the slurry the brewer can collect the appropriate quantity of yeast. Slurry can be harvested based on volume or weight. 1.0 L (1 quart) of yeast slurry (40% yeast solids) weighs approximately 1.1 Kg (2.4 lbs). The following guidelines will deliver the appropriate pitch rates.

Ales with a specific gravity < 1.064 (16 °P): pitch 1.0 Kg (2.2 lbs) of thick slurry (40% yeast solids) per 1 BBL (1.17 hL) or 1 Liter (1 quart) of thick slurry per 1 BBL (1.17 hL)

Lagers with a specific gravity < 1.064 (16 °P): pitch 2.0 Kg (4.4 lbs.) of thick slurry (40% yeast solids) per 1 BBL (1.17 hL) or 2 Liters (2 quarts) of thick slurry per 1 BBL (1.17 hL)

High lagers with a specific gravity > 1.064 (16 °P): pitch 3.0 Kg (6.6 lbs.) of thick slurry (40% yeast solids) per 1 BBL (1.17 hL) or 3 Liters (3 quarts) of thick slurry per 1 BBL (1.17 hL)

Ref: Yeast Harvesting & Repitching - Wyeast Lab

I believe 1 US BBL ≈ 31 US gal.  1 US Qt ≈ 32 US fl oz. So, ~ 1 fl oz per gal Ale and ~2 fl oz per gal Lager < 1.064. ~3 oz per gal > 1.064.

I use 12 fl oz pitch in 4.5 gal wort for Lager and 6 for an Ale (when I harvest and repitch). I want the desired yeast to outperform any undesirable microbes I may have inadvertently harvested or otherwise introduced. I do this as described in post #9 above.

Disclaimer: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. I am not paid or sponsored by anyone. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

Thanks

[system]

Harvested yeast, placed in refrigerator.
Should the container lid be tight or loose ?

Thanks

[denny]

Harvested yeast, placed in refrigerator.
Should the container lid be tight or loose ?

Thanks

Loose, unless you want to pick glass out of the fridge walls. Ask me how I know!

[pete_baker (pete b)]

I just do loose mason jar lid but you can also buy lids made for fermenting. My wife uses them for lacto fermented pickles. Honestly though, I think the loose mason jar lid is better because I think with yeast slurry those purpose made lids are more likely to clog and build up pressure than a loose lid.

[system]

First thought, yeast was done gassing off, tighten lid.

Second thought, all the shaking to dislodge yeast
created air bubbles, and then could be tightened after a day or two.

Third thought, I’d better check.

Thanks

[system]

Yeast used in original fermentation was Wyeast 1469 West Yorkshire Ale.
The grayish part of yeast slurry collected in container is 3 cups (24 oz).
BrewBama stated 12 oz (4.5g) for Lager, Denny stated half of slurry for high OG,
which happens to be 12 oz.  So were in the ball park, I’m good so far.

Next brew day will be within two weeks.
I’m hung up between making a starter, and pitching portion of yeast slurry in fermenter,
then filling with whole batch of fresh wort.

Also, what would be the safest number of times to re-pitch ?
I prefer to reduce the number of times re-pitching, vs waiting
until something tastes off or poor fermentation.

Your thoughts ?

Thanks

[BrewBama (Dwain)]

I brew in groups of three. If I harvest yeast I routinely pitch it in two subsequent batches. I have repitched up to five but I started getting nervous. Many have gone a lot further without an issue.

Disclaimer: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. I am not paid or sponsored by anyone. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV

[system]

Who is Mark Van Ditta ?

Cheers

fyi

Guide to Kveik and Other Farmhouse Yeast: Reusing and Maintaining Yeast -...

[BrewBama (Dwain)]

He was/is(?) a long time member here who has extensive knowledge concerning yeast. He introduced us to the Shaken, not Stirred (SnS) method of yeast starter that so many here use.

[dmtaylor (Dave Taylor)]

I never knew his last name until now.  I think he always went by the monikers Saccharomyces or S. cerevisiae.  See link:

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=96912

[system]

Originally called yeast slurry part, grayish, in reality it’s a light beige.

As it’s settling in the fridge, the beige part is now reduced to 2 1/4 cups.
All of the slurry was collected, with a small amount of beer.

Cheers

[system]

Thanks for the helpful responses.

It looks like the light beige part (yeast) will be about 2 cups (16 Oz’s).
On brew day:
1.  Collected yeast will be taken out of fridge to warm up
2.  Beer on top poured out and discarded
3.  Spoon off and discard top layer
4.  Spoon off middle layer and save for starter, leaving bottom layer
        (guesstimate it to be between a 1/3 to 1/2 used for ale starter)
5.  Cool some wort before boil and use for starter.

A dark beige bottom layer in jar is not noticed, just beer and light beige yeast.
I believe since the double drop method was used, most if not all the settled gunk
was left behind, when pouring in fermenter with air lock.

Cheers

[denny]

Thanks for the helpful responses.

It looks like the light beige part (yeast) will be about 2 cups (16 Oz’s).
On brew day:
1.  Collected yeast will be taken out of fridge to warm up
2.  Beer on top poured out and discarded
3.  Spoon off and discard top layer
4.  Spoon off middle layer and save for starter, leaving bottom layer
        (guesstimate it to be between a 1/3 to 1/2 used for ale starter)
5.  Cool some wort before boil and use for starter.

A dark beige bottom layer in jar is not noticed, just beer and light beige yeast.
I believe since the double drop method was used, most if not all the settled gunk
was left behind, when pouring in fermenter with air lock.

Cheers

No need to warm before using. It’s actually better if you don"t.

[system]

@denny

Thanks for the helpful responses.

It looks like the light beige part (yeast) will be about 2 cups (16 Oz’s).
On brew day:
1.  Collected yeast will be taken out of fridge to warm up
2.  Beer on top poured out and discarded
3.  Spoon off and discard top layer
4.  Spoon off middle layer and save for starter, leaving bottom layer
        (guesstimate it to be between a 1/3 to 1/2 used for ale starter)
5.  Cool some wort before boil and use for starter.

A dark beige bottom layer in jar is not noticed, just beer and light beige yeast.
I believe since the double drop method was used, most if not all the settled gunk
was left behind, when pouring in fermenter with air lock.

Cheers

No need to warm before using. It’s actually better if you don"t.

Why is that ?

Thanks

[denny]

@denny

Thanks for the helpful responses.

It looks like the light beige part (yeast) will be about 2 cups (16 Oz’s).
On brew day:
1.  Collected yeast will be taken out of fridge to warm up
2.  Beer on top poured out and discarded
3.  Spoon off and discard top layer
4.  Spoon off middle layer and save for starter, leaving bottom layer
        (guesstimate it to be between a 1/3 to 1/2 used for ale starter)
5.  Cool some wort before boil and use for starter.

A dark beige bottom layer in jar is not noticed, just beer and light beige yeast.
I believe since the double drop method was used, most if not all the settled gunk
was left behind, when pouring in fermenter with air lock.

Cheers

No need to warm before using. It’s actually better if you don"t.

Why is that ?

Thanks

Warming it makes it more active. You don’t want that to happen before the yeast hits wort. Not to mention it’s unnecessary.

[system]

@denny

@denny

Thanks for the helpful responses.

It looks like the light beige part (yeast) will be about 2 cups (16 Oz’s).
On brew day:
1.  Collected yeast will be taken out of fridge to warm up
2.  Beer on top poured out and discarded
3.  Spoon off and discard top layer
4.  Spoon off middle layer and save for starter, leaving bottom layer
        (guesstimate it to be between a 1/3 to 1/2 used for ale starter)
5.  Cool some wort before boil and use for starter.

A dark beige bottom layer in jar is not noticed, just beer and light beige yeast.
I believe since the double drop method was used, most if not all the settled gunk
was left behind, when pouring in fermenter with air lock.

Cheers

No need to warm before using. It’s actually better if you don"t.

Why is that ?

Thanks

Warming it makes it more active. You don’t want that to happen before the yeast hits wort. Not to mention it’s unnecessary.

That makes sense.

Thanks
Cheers

[BrewBama (Dwain)]

I always set mine out on the counter as I’m cooling the starter wort. Just something I’ve always done in an attempt to get the yeast and wort nearer the same temp.

Disclaimer: Any comment I add is simply the way I brew beer. I am not paid or sponsored by anyone. There are certainly other ways that can be equally effective which other brewers may contribute. This is what I’ve found that works for me using my equipment and processes so I offer this for your consideration. YMMV