The chart shows that at 50F 85% settles out and at 68F 58%, so there’s still some settling going on.
Denny, Joakim didn’t state which type of beer he compared - do you know? Did he ever have anyone else try it?
Anyone try the flotation method mentioned in the Brewing Techniques article?
“In flotation, the cooled wort is saturated with sterile air. As the air bubbles make their way to the top of the tank, they carry cold trub with them. After 2-3 h, a brown, compact head forms at the top of the wort. Wort is then removed from the bottom of the tank, leaving the cold trub behind. Even more cold trub (50-65% of total cold trub) can be removed if wort stands 6-8 h before being racked (3).”
Seems like it could be part of a typical homebrewer aeration method, then transfer out from below into another fermenter.
I guess I have seen other numbers somewhere. But, regardless, time plays into it as does how quickly you chill. IIRC a lot of lager brewers drop the wort all the way down to below 45, some even to close to freezing, to drop break. I have often noticed that is takes my lagers nearly over night to drop the majority of break material.
Sorry, Tom…it was a pils. He stated that in a different thread when he started discussing the experiment he was going to do. AFAIK, no one else ever tried it. Of course, it’s only a single data point, but a very interesting one!
Seems that chill haze is the main issue here for home brewers. We generally drink beer to fast to be concerned with the packaging issues. That said, if a home brewer is re-pitching yeast then perhaps more care should be taken to avoid moving significant volumes of cold break to subsequent batches. How important is clear beer - that seems to be the question. I happen to filter most light colored beer so after reading through the responses in this topic a few times I’m not sure that I’m as concerned as I used to be about cold trub in the fermenter.