Edit: If you are talking about the difference between dry hopping and not dry hopping I rescind that comment because you can do things with small batches that can give excellent hop aromas. Long WPs in commercial brewing can cause problems which is what I was thinking about.
I continue to try to dry hop in primary (because I am lazy), and I continue to be disappointed with the results. Like Denny said, there is just a weird flavor that I don’t care for. My results are better when I drop hop in secondary, but I think I might just start doing some extended hop stands at around 170 to 180 F and skipping the dry hop altogether.
I will eagerly await your debate. But from my perspective, I have no doubt. Granted, we are talking shelf life and stability. For 5 gallons of beer, if you plan on drinking within a few weeks, oxidation won’t be a problem. Especially kept cold. I have had kettle hopped beers stay good for literally 12+ months while dry hopped beers pick up oxidation flavors in weeks.
There is no comparison IMO to the aroma from dryhop vs whirlpool. I typically whirlpool, but when I dryhop, it is in a purged keg. The oxidation incurred killed my shelf life. I tried the stainless mesh dry hoppers, fail. I’ve been bagging into the purged keg and it has made a big difference in lessening the O2. Dry hops are such a pain though.
Denny or someone, refresh me on the science here… why is it that biotransformation only happens to hop oils introduced as a part of the dry hop and not what we add in a 160F hop stand? Nobody complains about, or seeks out, biotransformation of their whirlpool addidtions. Why not?