You want backlit material. Near any sign shop should be able to produce one for you.
So awesome! Thanks, Chris. I’ve been stalking you around the interwebs to get this information so apologies in advance: you’re going to have a message from me on pretty much every email, online forum, and FB page you have. 
-That’s what you get when you build such an awesome setup: creepy internet stalkers!
Adam
“Backlit material” -That’s what I ask the sign shop for? -And then just give them my graphics and dimensions?
Adam
Yep. A FedEx Office, fast signs or local sign shop should be able to assist. Save your self some dough and set the files up yourself if you can. Illustrator would be my first pick. File manipulation can run as mush per hour as a mechanic.
Haha! (To your response about internet stalkers) Thanks for the compliment! If you call the sign center (from the link I provided), ask for Dave and tell him you want the same van wrap material that was used on the Ones & Zeros Brewing order. Hopefully he will remember. He’s a nice guy anyhow and has helped me with decals / signs on other projects too. Good luck on your build! Post pics when it’s done and friend me on Facebook. I’m the Chris Allen from Nashville, TN
Thanks again.
Regarding FB: Already did and you’ll notice a message from me there. (Told you I was stalking you.)
Adam
Can anyone educate me on what all these numbers and terms mean on the casters?
I get what “threaded stem” means. “Black Polyolefin wheels” -easy enough.
But what is “Plain bore”?
What does the measurement “1/2-13x1” mean?
I’m assuming that 3" is the wheel diameter, and then 1 1/2" is the width of the wheel?
Why don’t these things come with wheels with brakes? -It looks like you buy and assemble the brakes separately.
–I’m trying to understand all the important stats on the casters mostly because this ebay seller charges 5x too much for shipping and I have Amazon Prime; plus casters are just something I know basically nothing about and I’d like to learn.
Adam
When I look at the original True caster set for this fridge (model 830275), the originals are 2 1/2" wheels by 1 3/4" wide, with a stem that it says is 1/2" -13 by 1" tall. I’m so confused at what the 13 means.
Adam
Ok I’m answering my own question, but UNC13 seems to be a standard for threads so you know that they’ll work together.
I’ve found two options that I THINK will work on Amazon that are Prime eligible:
$8.93 a piece with 1/2" x 1" UNC13 threads- seems safest except I can’t find an option with a brake and I need 2 with brakes…
http://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Institutional-Diameter-Polyolefin-Threaded/dp/B009PFCLT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415775465&sr=8-1&keywords=casters+2+1%2F2"+stem+1%2F2"+13+1"
Here’s one that’s only 2" in diameter, the wheel is wider and it has a stem that’s 1/2" x 1 1/2" Unc 13 and includes a brake for $6.65 a piece…
http://www.amazon.com/Shepherd-Diameter-Polyolefin-Threaded-Capacity/dp/B009PFC1R6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1415775465&sr=8-4&keywords=casters+2+1%2F2"+stem+1%2F2"+13+1"
The 2nd one is closer to what I want but possibly a bit risky with the 1 1/2" stem… Hmm…
Adam
Nice setup! I was inspired and pulled the trigger on the BrewPi controller for fermentation control in a GDM-26. As far as I know it has the same condenser and thermostat wiring setup as the GDM-12. Could you post a pic or give me more detail on the way you wired yours? (thermostat only or at the condenser)… The fridge hack on BrewPi’s site didn’t help me much for the True GDM models. Thanks!!!http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/Smileys/default/huh.gif
I would recommend wiring outlets that you can plug the fridge into. The primary reason for “hacking” the fridge like Elco and others is to be able to use the light as a heat source. Not messing with the wiring will maintain the value of your fridge.
I don’t mind hacking on this build considering I bought 2 units (a little rough looking but work fine) for $400 in a restaurant closure sale. Certainly don’t want to ruin the fridge, but really like the idea and want to try it. Not sure if the cycle time issue discussed earlier would be resolved using the pigtail method or wired outlet. Would’nt that be an “all on or all off” situation…eventually leading to premature failure? Hell…what do I know. Thanks for the suggestions.
This build looks amazing and I am hoping to build something similar.
My concern though is with the lowest temperature that these display fridges can maintain. After re-wiring them for use with a BrewPi, can they actually get the fermenter down to 32°F/0°C? If they can, will the compressor be running constantly to maintain such a low temperature?