I’ve just got a 52 QT COLEMAN cooler in order to make a new mash tun. I’d watched some videos in which a stainless steel braiding was attached to the valve, and I thought it was gonna be my option but:
What do you think? Which is the best solution?
Thanks a lot.
It would make a great batch sparge mash/tun. All you need is a single braid. Checkout http://www.dennybrew.com/.
You could also build a screen using PVC or copper pipe and use it for fly sparging.
The only one I would probably eliminate is BIAB since the whole idea with that is to only use a single vessel.
Years ago Denny’s testimonials about batch sparging convinced me to give it a try and I’ve never gone back to fly sparging. It really is cheap and easy.
Paul
Stainless braid or bazooka would both work fine. You don’t need a “T”, just a single braid will work great.
+1
I BIAB in a cooler mashtun to help hold my mash temps better. It works great for that.
1.) you don’t need a t. see www.dennybrew.com
2.) try batch sparging first. It’s so easy and effectvie you may never want to fly sparge
1.) you don’t need a t. see www.dennybrew.com
2.) try batch sparging first. It’s so easy and effectvie you may never want to fly sparge
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Thank you to everybody for your answers.
Denny, I’ve already read your article and I’m gonna try batch sparge next time. I’ve got a couple of questions:
Thank you to everybody for your answers.
Denny, I’ve already read your article and I’m gonna try batch sparge next time. I’ve got a couple of questions:
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You can mash with whatever ratio you like. I’ve found that 1.65-75 qt./lb. works well for me and increased my efficiency. After you run off the mash, measure how much wort you have. Subtract that from the amount you to start the boil with. The answer you get is how much sparge water to use.
I’ve been using a bazooka screen and love it (i.e. doesn’t float like the water supply braids). I mash at a 1.75 qts/lb and find I need almost the same amount of sparge water.
Just hit about 80% mash efficiency using the Cheap’N’Easy method mash tun on the Octoberfest I just did this past weekend.
In terms of the brew itself, it doesn’t matter of the braid floats. But it could be a PITA. I winder why mine doesn’t float?
I always worried it was going to knock it loose when I was stirring the mash. Also, I made it too long, which is probably why it floated so easy. It wasn’t until I switched to a bazooka screen that I realized it didn’t need to be that long.
Yeah, that would be the issue. Keep in mind that all the draining happens at the outlet…wort doesn’t enter and flow down a porous braid. 2-3 inches is plenty and won’t get in the way.
I have one tun with a braid and one with a bazooka. The only major advantage of the bazooka is the durability. I need primp my braid before every batch.
I use Lasco brand (part number 10-0121 or 10-0321) and have never needed to do that. You could also try a shorter braid.
No clue on my brand, bought it from my local ace 8 years ago. It just gets pounded when stirring in the grains and spathe water. I don’t think it affects anything either way.
Started braid and switched to copper manifold I made. Fun making it, few bucks in spare copper parts. Been great for my setup.
Thank you very much. I’m sure next time I’m gonna try batch sparge.
I am curious… how many and what size holes are on the underside of the copper? Or does it matter?
I have had slow flow/drain issues on my last two batches with my braid. I haven’t figured out exactly what I am doing wrong or changed, yet. I have done 12 or so batches without problems. No crush changes. It may be timing of my lifting of the tun on a 2x4 block to drain everything. Any ideas are appreciated…
using a hacksaw, you make slices in bottom side about every 1/4". I switched over 4-years ago now and been happy with my system. drain evenly, never clogs, no stuck sparge, and great efficiency at 85+ (good crush and batch sparge also contributes to this).
