Read the Palmer stuff online, it is free. I was surprised at the difference in technique between what was in his book and BYO and Miller. In the end, it probably doesn’t matter much so long as you have good sanitation but, the more I read about this hobby I realize how many ideas are out there. I just brewed my first 10 gallon all grain and learned more than I had anticipated. No substitute for experience.
If you go with this recipe, you might want to consider doing a 10 gallon batch, it won’t last long. The last time I brewed it, it disappeared within 48 hours of being tapped.
It is hard to get easier than batch sparging, though if you have bought fly sparging equipment then go for it. That and do a simple single infusion mash like Denny said.
and if you are using a cooler don’t forget to include a couple of degrees for the heating of the cooler. If beersmith tells be 167 for strike water to hit my temp I aim for 170ish. I think this last brew I added the strike water to the cooler at 172 and when I got the grain in and stirred up well I was dead on at 158
Huzzah. Though one text does not agree, I do. It just seems easier to adjust the water temp and then add the grain. And experience will tell you how much temperature loss for the grain. I have been working the same recipe over and over while I get my new all grain system up and running. Strike water : 160. Mash temp (after dough in) 152. Then mash out as near to 170 as I can adding near boiling water and recirculating. So far, I am happy with the beer that has resulted. I am trying to keep things simple but I also plan to investigate a HERMS or other type of temperature step in my brewing in the future.
ps. 10 gallon batch and my actual temps are + or - 2 degrees.