We finished our conversion to start brewing all grain.
Mash tun built with all stainless steel and a picnic cooler, passed a leak test.
Wort chiller built, with 60’ of 1/2" copper tubing.
A couple of questions, where may I find an inexpensive larger brew kettle?
Is a ball valve on it more highly recommended?
Opinion on our first brew: should we do a clone of a beer that we are familiar with when it comes to taste?
I think the best place to shop for kettles (and a lot of other stuff for your brewery) is a restaurant supply store. You can get a super heavy gauge (~1/4") 10 gallon aluminum stockpot for under $100. What I’ve used for many years. If you think for some reason you need to go stainless, it will run you a lot more, but still way less than the exact same thing sold as brewing equipment.
I went with a stainless 10 gallon kettle and have been pleased. It didn’t have a valve when I purchased it. My thought was less is more and nothing to leak. I was more comfortable with 10 gallons as opposed to 8 for 5 gallon batches. I sparge to 6 1/4 gallons preboil, so I like the extra space for less worry about boil over. I have since added a weldless bulkhead ball valve and diptube due to getting a riptide pump. I didn’t want to risk not properly priming the pump and burning it up. A step bit made it very easy to add. You could always go that route if you want to add a valve later like I did. Also give handles a look. The kettle described has riveted handles and is more sturdy than my other kettle that has tack welded handles.
Not sure what you mean by larger kettle. I purchased this 10-gallon one on sale for $49.99 (now $69.99):
They sell larger and better ones for more money, but still quite reasonable. I put a ball valve on it, and I highly recommend that you do so (and get one that can be easily taken apart for cleaning). I purchased this valve for $12: 1/2" NPT stainless steel 3 piece ball valve and added a nipple and hose barb for about $5 each ( 1/2" NPT Hex nipple Stainless1/2" NPT x 1/2" Hose Barb -304 Stainless) . Total cost under $100 and it has the welded ports for valve and thermometer. Very happy.
Makes me think… the traditional heraldic emblem of the brewing trade depicted a tun, a malt shovel, a mash fork, and a wort ladle. The modern symbolic expression for turning pro and entering the trade is “putting on the rubber boots.” Washing stuff down has become the central activity, hasn’t it… I suppose our beer is better for it. While you’re deciding on your equipment, think about what your choices will mean for ease of maintenance. I like very few parts that need to be disassembled and cleaned, and a whole rig that can be cleaned out in minutes with a spray hose (not unlike what’s on the old coat of arms,) but that’s me.
I’m using an 8 gallon kettle now for 5 gallon batches and between evaporation and trub I find it hard to actually get 5 gallons of wort into the fermenter. Wish I’d got a 10 gallon kettle.
Where do you live? I have a 15 gallon stainless steel Polerware kettle with a 1/2” 2-piece ball valve, 1/2” thermometer port, a lid and a graduated sight gauge I will sell to you for $50. I’m not interested in shipping it for obvious reasons. I have pictures, but no way of attaching them to this post. I can send them via email. Send me an email if you’re interested. I paid $450 for it brand new in 2013. Still in very good condition.
Rob: Did you ever notice any problems with wort acidity pitting the aluminum? I was afraid of using aluminum pots for that reason and wonder if you ever noticed this problem. Just curious.
I haven’t had any problems. Restaurants apparently don’t have any problems. The one thing to remember with aluminium is you don’t want to clean it with strong alkaline like PBW or use anything like Barkeepers Friend, just dish soap and elbow grease. You want to build and keep a dull oxide layer on it, and it’s then passivated. You can boil plain water in a new one to jump start this.
Martin uses aluminum kettles, he’s the big brain around here to ask about any reactions with aluminium. Martin?
EDIT I just looked up in John Palmer’s book (he was a metallurgist in a former life after all.) He says aluminum is nonreactive between pH 4.0 and 8.5 and at brewing temperatures. Now, outside those conditions, I’d say your batch is a dumper anyway! He agrees aluminum is a great choice for brewing vessels. (I think the main reason that aluminum isn’t used commercially is that very large vessels would essentially be too brittle. Not scientific language I know. Pretty sure Jeff Rankert is the resident big brain on those kinds of properties.)
I have been using an 8 gallon aluminum kettle for almost 3 years now, no problems. If I remember correctly it was about $50 on Amazon. It does now have a bit of discoloration, but no pitting. I definitely recommend a valve at the bottom, saves a lot of heavy lifting transferring wort out of the kettle. Also purchased the valve and bulkhead fittings from Amazon, less than $20. My kettle also has a stainless braided filter attached to the inside of the valve to help remove some of the trub.
Where do you live? I have a 15 gallon stainless steel Polerware kettle with a 1/2” 2-piece ball valve, 1/2” thermometer port, a lid and a graduated sight gauge I will sell to you for $50. I’m not interested in shipping it for obvious reasons. I have pictures, but no way of attaching them to this post. I can send them via email. Send me an email if you’re interested. I paid $450 for it brand new in 2013. Still in very good condition.
I live in SE Iowa, I would love to buy this! I ordered a 10 gallon SS kettle with ball valve and thermometer on Thursday. I could just use that one for a HLT.