I use a JSP Maltmill powered by a 1/2" drill. Works like a charm.
1/2 inch will have more than enough power
I guess I am down to the maltmill or the BC.
Hey bluesman, do you use the adjustable malt mill or the pre-adjusted model?
I want to power my mill with an exercise bike. That way I can work of all that calorie intake from the beers.
How about just attach a big ship wheel and you can play Popeye, and get some big arms instead?

I recently tried doing an upgrade on my mill. I closed the gap setting a little and I put a new top on it to accept a larger hopper (water bottle).
First I tried my cordless, it started to mill but then slipped on the drive shaft. Not to be outdone I put a 3/8 corded drill (almost new) on it and smoked the windings! :o >:(
I put the old top back on the mill, left the gap setting where it was, used my old smaller hopper with a narrower feed neck and Bingo! I was milling grain. The amount of surface contact exposure between the rollers and the grain as well as rate the hopper freely flows is directly correlated with the amount of torque a drill needs. Pretty obvious really, so anybody that thinks their cordless drill won’t or can’t should try restricting the flow rate of grain from their hopper and/or decrease the amount of surface contact between the grain and the rollers. Just thought I’d share for those who have complained about their drills. :-* ![]()
I’m not sure how this batch is going to lauter though… it looked pretty dusty, I added some rice hulls but I’m still not sure about it. I may be taking my roller gap back to the manufacturer default (which I marked
)… I guess I’ll know today. :-\
I have the adjustable. Although I only use the original factory setting .040". If you plan on making alot of wheat or rye beers the adjustable will help.
JSP non-adj Maltmill in homemade stand w/ inverted 5g plastic carboy hopper( holds about 26# grain), powered by a Milwaukee 2 speed 1/2" Hole Hawg. ;D Low = 300 rpm - perfect! Thing doesn’t even know there’s a load on it…
I have a barley crusher and I use an 18v Firestorm cordless with no problems. I did burn up a 1/2 craftsman on my Corona mill a few years ago when making a BW. I generally run the drill motor unloaded for 20 to 30 seconds to let the motor fan do some cooling when done with a grain run (15-30#).
So, are the drills that work on the BC expensive? (like $100-200+ expensive)? The 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch are just “bit sizes” aren’t they? They don’t indicate a drill’s power, do they?
I have found that any standard duty 3/8 drill will work for my mill, getting started is problematic some times but if you condition the grain, start the mill then pour the grain everything works fine.
I use a JSP Maltmill, non-adjustable, no problems. We started using a 1/2" drill at about 600 rpm works great, exept for rye, I have to slowly pour the grain in or it will spring the rollers and not crush the grain.
3/8 and 1/2 are not “bit sizes” but rather “chuck sizes”. The chuck being what holds the drill bits. And, yes, since the 1/2 chuck can hold larger bits, they generally are more powerful drills.
Thanks for the clarification on drill anatomy (chucks and bits).
The idea to get the rollers rolling first and then add the grains is a good one that I’ll take away from this discussion.
I’ve been putting the grains in first and then trying to get the drill moving. Duh.
Might still need a more powerful drill, though.
JSP non-adjustable with 1/2hp motor off an old Delta Table Saw. 1.5" sheeve on motor, 10" sheeve on mill, 360 rpm. If you are crushing rye, mix it with your base grains so it doesn’t clog & stop the rollers.
Just be careful and make sure you don’t let things stop in mid crush. I do that fairly often and then you’re stuck right back in the “grains first” situation.
Most wheat malts and Rye malt are harder than barley to crush, if I stop milling with grain having either of those in the mix I run the rollers backward about a quarter to one third turn and then start milling again.
richardt, if you reduce the size of the throat that feeds the rollers from your hopper you’ll have less problems milling also with a 3/8 drill.