I’m building a hop spider this weekend – looks like an easy/fun project. Got my parts. Got some time.
I looked at the BYO article, and my first thought was to flip the PVC coupler so the clamp rested on the shoulder of the coupler, to minimize the risk of the bag sliding off. Anyone else do that?
http://byo.com/component/resource/article/2494-build-a-hop-spider-projects
I didnt think to do that with mine but I’ve never had the clamp or the bag slip off.
Here’s mine! I started with a 2qt stainless dog pail and cut off the bottom with an angle grinder.
Very cool spider!
Here’s mine, although not really a “spider.” I took the original design and made mine so that it hangs off the side w/ a towel hook. This way I can easily get my IC on the other side of the kettle. Works great!
As you can see from the pic, I did turn my coupling upside down and brought my straining bag up through the inside. This holds very well and I haven’t had any issues with the straining bag sliding off.
I made one a couple months ago and found greatly decreased hop utilization to the point that the pellet hops clogged up the tiny holes in the paint strainer bag. Anyone else have any issues with theirs?
I used one once and noticed that too - decrease in hop utilization. Of course disclaimer here my brewing partner made it and had three aluminum legs that went down into the kettle. It was more like a hop crab. We never really got the boil where we wanted it and our FG suffered a lot 1.036!
Will galvanized carriage bolts be ok?
Yep, zinc is actually a yeast nutrient, so having that in the boil would be a good thing!
I haven’t noticed any difference in hop utilization with mine, at least compared to using hop bags. My APA, for example, tastes the same as when I use hop bags for the hops. And when I go to clean out my hops filter, which I have nicknamed “Da Hoppa!,” all the pellet residue is wet and none of it is dry (similar to when I use hop bags).
Yeah I’d like to re test my spider as like I said I think it was the aluminum bars and decreased boil that was the issue and not the bag. Just haven’t gotten around to it. Sounds like I’m inspired now!
I built one of these years ago and did it a little different. I had extra copper pipe and fittings laying around and this just seemed easy.
The hooks on the sides are 1/4" Peg Board hooks that are inserted in holes drilled in the PVC.
Paul
Do the hop bags get all twisted up when using these? Lets say I’ve got 3 hop additions to make, do I have to straighten out the bag for additions 2 and 3?
They can get bunched up sometimes. It depends on how vigorous your boil is. Just lifting the bag and letting it untwist will normally open it back up.
Paul
Based on this thread, I went to Home Depot and bought the parts for the hop spider.
I`m brewing a dry stout today using the BIAB method (inspired by Brad Smith’s talk at NHC), using the hop spider, and adding my roasted grains later in the mash (inspired by Gordon Strong).
So much for changing one thing in your process at a time.
Happy 4th everyone!!
Assuming you’re boiling in a converted keg, or other vessel of a similar height, do the strainer bags reach the bottom? How close to the bottom. I’m wondering how FWHing would work.
That will depend a lot on what size bag you use.
I dunno…for one thing, there’s seldom a need for additional zinc. For another, I’m pretty certain I heard galvanized in the kettle could be poisonous. I’ll see if I can confirm that.
ETA: According to the FDA, (http://www.fda.gov/food/foodsafety/retailfoodprotection/foodcode/foodcode2009/ucm188064.htm)
4-101.15 Galvanized Metal, Use Limitation.
Galvanized metal may not be used for utensils or food-contact surfaces of equipment that are used in contact with acidic food.
Apparently the issue is that the low pH will dissolve the zinc and lead to zinc poisoning.
+1
…not to mention that the boiling action will accelerate the dissolution process.
Galvanized and food are generally a no-no
