Just wondering how all of you guys do this. I whirlpool after the boil either when I add Whirlpool hops, or simply to help my chiller get temperature down more quickly. Typically, I will run the boiling wort through the pump and back into my recirculation port at a very low rate the last 10 minutes of the boil. It works, but it’s a pain in the ■■■ because the boiling wort tends to cavitate so I’m constantly playing with the Pump to get it to actually move through but not cavitate. I’m just wondering how most people do this and is 10 minutes too long? Wondering if I could just recirculate after flame out as I’m chilling and That Would Be Enough? thanks
1 Like
I have an electric system, and I run the hot wort through the pump and back into the kettle immediately after turning off the heat. I use a piece of hose so that the wort goes back into the kettle without splashing, to avoid any unpleasant hot side aeration effects. I figure that a minute or two of this is more than sufficient to sanitize, especially because I keep it running through the whole whirlpool and chill phases.
I sanitize before the boil, then I isolate the boil kettle from the pump with a valve off the kettle. When I’m ready to circulate, my pump is already sanitized and ready to pump.
Perhaps if you can post a picture of your pumping setup, I may be able to help figure out why it’s cavitating.
I use the same pump to transfer from the mash TUN to the kettle so sanitizing prior probably won’t work. I just did a little search on sanitizing water by boiling and it actually says it only takes like one minute to sanitize/pasteurize at a boiling temperature so my 10 minutes is probably way too long. Here’s a picture of my set up if it helps.
I got fed up trying to deal with cavitation so I just run StarSan through it since I already have it mixed.
2 Likes
I always admire Denny’s journey towards simplification and ease of brewing.
I’m trying to improve my processes for quality of beer right now, but I see myself moving to brewday efficiency once I’m done exploring and I see where I can simplify and shorten the brewday.
1 Like
The pump, the brew hose and the chiller all get sanitized with 185 degree hot water. I have also recirculated hot wort fior the last 5-10 minutes which also works well.
1 Like
It’s basically pragmatism.
1 Like
You don’t need boiling wort to sanitize the pump. Anything over 165 degrees for 5 minutes will do. I just turn on the whirlpool circulation a minute or two after flameout. No cavitation and the wort is over 200 degrees after 5 minutes of recirculation. I add any whirlpool hops when the temp drops to 170-180.
3 Likes
Your setup is substantially more complicated than mine. But, if I understand your concern and you are actually circulating wort @ close to 212°F, that should be hot enough to kill any bacteria that may be present. Also, if you have the ability to throttle down a valve on the discharge side of the pump, that should prevent, or minimize, cavitation. So, the pump needs to be primed, right? Try closing the discharge valve down to about 10% open, then start the pump. Maybe you have already tried this?? Good luck! Sorry I couldn’t be more help.