I’m having some issues with CO2 leakage in my keezer and I’m trying to tighten up some of the connections in hopes of curing the problem.
My regulator has a 5/16 barb and the gas tubing will be going to the distributor which has a 1/4 mfl… what hardware would I need to make this connection?
Not sure about the connections. Are you sure your kegs aren’t leaking? New o-rings with keg lube on all of them should cure leaky kegs. A spray bottle with soapy water can find any leaks you might have.
You should be able to get a different, matching barb on your regulator.
I’ll also second the kegs thing. I have a few kegs that seem to leak from the poppets when they aren’t seated perfectly. I’ve taken to touching the poppets whenever I disconnect them just to check.
The first order of business is to confirm the source of the leakage. Then take the necessary steps to correct the leak. Use a mild soap water solution or some starsan solution in a spray bottle to locate the source of the leak and report back to us with your findings.
Yeah, the problem is that I can’t find the leak. I’ve tried the Starsan/spray bottle method on literally EVERY single connection and still can’t find it. I hooked up the last tank, and it was fine for about 3 weeks. No drop in pressure, nothing. I would check every day. Came downstairs this morning, and now it’s all gone. Extremely frustrating…
Have you checked the regulator itself? Our clubs regulator is leaking slowly from the body, quite annoying. More annoying was that it took 3 fills of a 20# tank to figure it out.
Yep, it can be very frustrating.
Make sure you’re opening the valve on the tank all way tight.
If it’s leaking, you should be able to find it. Look everywhere three times. Start at the tank valve and go all the way to the entire keg lid (posts, relief, main seal, etc.) Everywhere there’s a connection. The entire manifold. If you don’t have hose clamps on each side of all of your tubing then do that.
For the gas-to-manifold, you just need a 1/4" FFL swivel nut and 5/16" barb, hose clamps on both ends.
Thanks for the suggestions. I’ll give them a shot, once I fill my tank. Again.
Start by process of elimination. Isolate the regulator, then add the next component. As frustrating as it may seem, it’s really not that difficult. One step at a time and you’ll narrow down the possibilities. Eventually you’ll find the source of the leak.
Dip the end of the 1/4" tubing in some boiling hot water and it will slide onto the 5/16" barb with little problem.
I put a little keg lube on connections that might leak - it helps.
Turns out it was a combination of a leaky lid seal and a faulty gas disconnect that only leaked in certain positions. Some keg lube and a new disconnect fixed the problem. Thanks for the help!
I have one keg that is always a bear to seal. I have to hit it with 50psi while gripping the bottom with my feet and yanking on the lid handle as hard as I can. Other just take 30-40 to seal.
Did you change the seals and use some keg lube ? I change my keg seals a couple times a year, using keg lube as well, and rarely if ever have a leak.
Did you change the seals and use some keg lube ? I change my keg seals a couple times a year, using keg lube as well, and rarely if ever have a leak.
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O-rings are pretty new and I for sure use plenty of lube. It’s always been like this.
Think I may try the larger lid o-rings from Williams. More expensive, but if they work. If anybody knows what the McMaster part number is I would appreciate it.
Cool. I bought a couple reconditioned ball-lock Cornys once and didn’t love the way each lid felt when it closed , so I swapped lids and got a much better fit (and seal) on both. Do you have another keg you could swap to?
I just came into some plastic PRV single handle firestone kegs. Replacing the entire lid instead of the PRV. I’ll try one of the new ones on this pesky keg.