It shouldn’t. I think the only difference would be the pressure reading on the high side since the gas would be colder, but that may even be insignificant.
I’ve heard that you can get moisture problems with your regulator, but I don’t have experience with that. My cylinders stay outside the fridge. More room for beer.
I’ve also found that the gauges are a little slower to respond that if they’re outside of the freezer. But I just change my pressures gradually when necessary and it’s no big deal.
I don’t think this was mentioned - get some keg lube and put it on the keg o-rings and anywhere else two surfaces touch that need to hold pressure. It will really help block CO2 leaks.
This is one thing I’ve never done. I just find keg lube so hard to clean off anything that I limit what I use it for, which is pretty much only mini-kegs.
I would have thought not, but if Euge does it then game on.
I had leaks when I first set up the system and keg lube fixed it. I might have tested more strictly than others do. I would pressurize the system, shut the CO2 off and check to see if pressure had decreased 24 hours later. That would detect some pretty slow leaks.
I like to store my empty kegs under pressure. That way, if they still have pressure when I fill them I know the seals are all good. If not, I have a leak to track down.
I had some leaks in the CO2 system to find. I also get leaks in one particular keg that has a slightly narrower post - It leaks between the post and disconnect if the o-ring is not lubed. Neither would be found by pressurizing kegs.