Does anyone know where I can find the ultimate introduction to kegging for pea-brained twerps like myself? Bought a set of 2nd hand 20 liter sodakegs. Still need to get all the extra equipment. Main concern: I don’t want to spoil the batch of beer I’m brewing now (citra APA with Conan yeast). Lots of pictures and drawings required.
Check out the free download of “Bottler’s Guide To Kegging” from Zymurgy on www.homebrewersassociation.org: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/attachments/0000/1312/Summerzym95-Kegging_How-To.pdf
Looks good, thanks! What’s the single most likely thing to ruin a beer when kegging the first time?
Not much, but if I had to choose something it would be failing to purge the headspace before carbing the keg. Some people purge the entire keg with CO2 before filling, but I haven’t found that to be any more effective than just purging the headspace.
Not being thorough in your cleaning and sanitizing. I’ve had one possibly iffected beer, and two obviously infected. The two obviously were kegged.
+1 to Denny and Jim’s advice. I’d add being sure to change every seal on those kegs - the lid, post seals, dip tube seal- and use a very thin layer of Keg Lube on the seals. Or else you’ll have beers not want to stay carbonated and you’ll go through CO2 tanks really quickly.
I agree with Jim on sanitation.
Like anything else in this hobby, if it isn’t clean, it’s a problem.
Paul
It won’t ruin beer, but my first couple months I went through a lot of CO2. Keep a bottle of starsan close by, spray all the connections, and find all the slow leaks and you’ll be less frustrated than I was.
Now I’m getting REALLY scared!
Nothing to be afraid of. Check for leaks all the way through, at the tank to regulator on. I even had a regulator that needed some tightening. Turn the pressure up to 200kPa ~29 PSI and listen for leaks, then spray every connection with SS. Spray around the lid, and PRV.
+1
If you have kegs from different manufacturers, be aware that the parts are not interchangeable.
When I got my first batch of kegs, I disassembled them all for cleaning and threw all the posts into a bucket. Bad idea. Not all posts thread on to all kegs. Not all poppets fit all posts. Etc.
Pressurize everything to normal working pressure, fill the bathtub, and submerge it all to check for leaks. I’ve had some really pernicious leaks that I couldn’t even catch with the purpose-made bubbler stuff, but the bathtub trick is a one-and-done thing.
Yeah, only did that once for a keg. Learned that from my Indiana Farmer uncle when he was checking tires on the farm so many years ago.
OK, thanks for the feedback. Three more questions.
- I want to start with two kegs and a beergun. Will one CO2 cylinder and a dual regulator suffice?
- Apparently there are two types of hoses : 8x14 mm and 5x11mm. Do I need them both or can I just use the 8x14?
- Can’t find dedicated keg lube in Europe. Is there an equivalent that is more easily obtainable?
Thanks!
- Yep!
- Don’t know, sorry.
- I’ve read of people using KY jelly, which I’m sure works, but I’d suggest looking for anything food grade.
https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=22528.0
Here’s a good thread on keg lube alternatives. I have keg lube but rarely use it. It’s very hard to get off of anything it gets on. I can’t stand the stuff.
I’ve never tried the alternatives, though.
As to the hoses, I don’t understand metric. However, you’ll have different tubing for your gas and liquid. I suppose you could use the liquid tubing on the gas side, too, but I don’t think there’s any benefit.
I only use it when I’ve got a slow leak that tightening connections doesn’t solve quickly. Otherwise, I raw dog it too. 
Thank you for adding new expressions to my twerp vocabulary.
I find keg lube is most important on the dip tube rings and the post rings. Keeping the dip tube rings lubed extends their life and keeps them from drying and cracking. Adding a small amount of lube to the post rings keeps them from tearing and keeps the disconnect from getting stuck.