I do all-grain BIAB 5-gal batches of dark ales, and have been quite satisfied with the results. My procedure has been to do a single-infusion mash at the low end of the spectrum-- initial strike temp about at 152 F to 155 F. Turn the burner off, stir in the crushed grains, put the lid on the brew pot, cover it with an old insulated coveralls to retain heat, mash for 60 minutes, remove grain bag and drain, heat to boil and continue with the rest of the normal brewing process.
If at the end of 50 minutes of mashing, I would suspend the grain bag above the liquid in the pot, and heat the water to ~ 190 F, then submerge the grain bag again and leave it for 10 more minutes, would that step improve the beer?
The internet can’t seem to agree on this one. I mash out every batch I make but that’s because it’s what I learned back when I first started. Yes, I’ve dropped some things I learned back then but what’s an extra 10 minutes? Some argue that moving directly to a boil passes through the mash out temp, so it makes it unnecessary but [emoji2377][emoji482][emoji482]
Though a mash out isn’t necessary, the extra time may eke out a few extra gravity points. The same thing can be accomplished by suspending the grain bag just off the bottom of your kettle as the wort heats up to ~175 F.
My primary reason for brewing is to make beer that I like to drink. I’m very satisfied with the taste of my beer. I don’t think it is lacking anything regarding flavor or mouthfeel and I’m not sure what would constitute an improvement, but I would know it when I tasted it. If it could be improved somehow that would be a gain. I’m less concerned about efficiency or cost or the incremental time that this step would require. Thanks
I have done both. I’m convinced and then unconvinced that the step works. I honestly can’t tell/taste any difference, so as it currently stands, no mash out for me. I think any benefit of a mash out can be achieved in the boil kettle.
Even if you like your beer very much, I agree that it’s useful to consider processes/practices that might make it even better. But make sure you understand what a new step is supposed to do. Here, make sure you understand the purpose of mashing out. Only then can you decide if it applies to your brewery.
Mashing out does two things: it reduces the viscosity of the wort, making lautering easier; and 2) it denatures the enzymes so that no further conversion takes place, “locking in” the sugar profile.
It is mostly a holdover from when malt was undermodified. There could still be gummy beta-glucan sugars present at the end of the mash, and raising the temp made them less problematic during lautering. This had the side effect of better consistency between batches because conversion was halted.
These considerations might be important if you are mashing hundreds of pounds of undermodified malt and taking 2-3 hours to collect the wort. At the homebrew scale, they are negligible. I suspect that anyone who can tell a difference is just basing it on confirmation bias.
Mashing out won’t hurt your beer but it is totally unnecessary.
Thanks to all who replied. My general guideline is “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” so I’ll just continue the 60-min mash and go straight to the boil.
I do a mash out most every beer. ….but I have a very specific reason that I add the 15 minutes: I recirculate during the whole mash but any crystal or dark malt goes in at the beginning of mash out. I also recirculate the sparge for 15 minutes to give me a 30 minute hot steep.
If you are doing a brew in a bag I doubt doing a mash out will do anything for you since the enemies will probably take longer to denature than your mash out time (you will probably reach close to boiling point before denaturing). Wether tea-bagging your mash at 190° does anything at all is hard to say, probably not. But you may increase some mash yield? I guess you could take a gravity reading before and after and see.
i can understand that, though i do imagine increased wort viscosity could be important (that’s my main reason as my efficiency is regular, but not amazing)
so, do you guys mash in a ~1.2litres/1lb ratio then just add more mash-temp water? or i guess just sparge directly with at ~165F?
Another case where there’s a disconnect between theory and reality. I’ve sparged with 170F water and 70F water and found no difference. It may affect viscosity, but it doesn’t matter.
It is inconceivable to me that wort viscosity matters at the homebrew scale and in this modern era of well-modified malts.
As Denny said, sparge water temp doesn’t really matter. I get mine to ~180F. I’d go higher because it would shave off the time it takes for the wort to come to a boil, but I don’t know what the plastic of my MT can handle. Plus my HLT does double duty as a pasteurizer. I don’t want to go less because it would take longer for the wort to reach boiling temp. But strictly in terms of rinsing sugars, temp doesn’t really matter.
While we’re on the topic of sparge water temp, I’ll add that the conventional wisdom that sparging with water above 170F will leach tannins out of the mash is completely false.
Indeed it is, as long as your pH is good. I have sparged with water just under boiling when I wasn’t paying attention the the temp. Didn’t cause any problems.
haha, thats a really good point. i remember discussion on this factor a long time ago and peoples answer was “it just doesnt cause astringency somehow” aka no real answer.