IIRC, he states that the oils responsible for citrus saturate even lower (around 4g/L). Above that you can get additional herbal/tealike compounds, and more bitterness from polyphenols, up to 8g/L.
I am not dry hopping that high. I use 4 oz of Amarillo hops in a 10 gallon batch with my Amarillo IPA and I get a nice aroma. I am a bit leery of going to 1.1 oz/gal (11 ounces in 10 gallons) because that would really clog up my racking port on my conical. That said, the Shellhammer limit is a good thing to keep in mind.
+1. 4-8g/l
“Adding more hops by static dry-hopping does not simply lead to increased aroma intensity but also changes aroma quality in the finished beer. Dry-hopping rates >8 g/L lead to hop aromas that were more herbal/tea in quality than citrus. To maintain a more balanced hop aroma quality this study suggests using a static dry-hopping rate between 4 and 8 g/L.”
Does Mr./Mrs. Shellhammer say anything about the gravity of the beer all that those dry hops are going in to?
I find my little American pales can’t handle 1 oz/gal. They would taste like hop juice.
You say this like it’s a problem? ;D
But I think this information was geared towards getting the maximum amount of flavor from hops in your beer. If the beer you’re brewing doesn’t require maxed-out hop character, then I don’t know if this particular bit of research applies.
Yeah. It took me a minute or two after my post to figure that out.
Correct. It was a recommendation for a maximum, not a minimum.
I just realized that the Waldo Lake Amber Ale-inspired beer I did on Memorial Day is ready for dry hops. I can try this technique sooner than expected. Using 3 oz of dry hops in a 5.75 gallon batch.
Trying this now. Just added 4 oz of hops to beer after crashing to 35f for a couple of days. Planning to keg in 48 hours. Hoping for good results.
I wish I could cold crash my beer before dry hopping as Denny suggests. My lagering keezere in in my basement. The only thing I will carry down the stairs now are kegs of beer for safety reasons. If I turned the walk-in cooler in my brewery down to 35 degrees, I would need take out a new mortgage on my house to pay the elctric bill!
For those reasons, I dry hop in the 60-65 degree range and it seems to work well for me.
That’s what I was doing, too. This is WAY better IMO. OTOH, if I wasn’t lucky enough to have glycol chilled conicals, I’d be right there with ya.
Come to think of it I’ve always dry hopped cold in the keg.
I keg from the fermenter and then cold crash in the keg under CO2 pressure to reduce stress on my old fermentation fridge. I let the beer clear then dry hop.
That’s what I used to do, too. I’d leave them in til the keg kicked.
you leave the dry hops in the keg til it kicks? how long do your kegs normally take to kick?
I used 2, for 2-3 months. No problems with that, but I no longer do it after discovering the 35F/48 hour method.
so you just add the dry hops cold for 48 hours then pull the bag? or do you keep it closed and jump to a fresh keg?
These days I use a glycol chilled conical. I crash to 35 for 3-5 days, dump the yeast, add dry hops for 48 hours, then keg.
sweet setup man, im about to brew a ipa this weekend along with a few other beers and im gonna try this cold dry hop technique, right on thank you
To keep from opening the keg (again), you can put a short leash on the bag so as you drink, the level of the beer drops below the bag and as a result you’ve removed the bag. Rig it to where in ~1 gal your hops are high and dry.
I believe my lower flavor was a result of not using enough hops in my dry hop. I used more in my current Pale Ale on tap and it worked great.
great idea, dental floss seems perfect for that