I read some good stuff on this in another thread recently. Going to give this a go with what I have on hand. That said, it will be the second of two batches tomorrow (first is a Pils) and I’m able to modify the grain bill and/or quantities somewhat as I have a decent stock that needs to be used up. Open to suggestions. Also, feel free to hijack and post your own recipes.
Plan is for first dry hop charge (listed as 10 days in the picture) to be added during active fermentation. After fermentation slows, I’ll transfer to secondary onto the mangos and my second dry hop charge.
Depending on your process you will use for the “steeping”, you may not get the level of IBU contribution that BS is suggesting. There is a setting to adjust how much contribution you get from steeping hops if you follow a typical process and want to change it. For instance, I drop my temp to ~170F before adding my steeping hops and I consider their contribution to be <5% of 60 minute bittering hops, IBU-wise. In your case, it would be about the difference of 63 (adj) vs 76 (current) IBUs. Nothing too major, but enough to be considered (IMHO).
Yeah I agree. I don’t put a whole lot of stock into the estimate numbers, but it does give a good reference point and makes future changes pretty easy. I add my steeping hops around the same temp as you, but will be throwing about half of them in at flame out this time to extract a bit more bittering. My fail-safe is the Warrior addition, I should get IPA level IBUs out of that addition alone. The rest is really all for flavor.
FWIW, the current calculation estimates are:
OG: 1.071
FG: 1.018 (We’ll see how this plays out)
ABV: 7%
SRM: 5.5
IBU: 76
Batch size is 5 1/2 gallons. Mash: single infusion/recirculating at 152.
Agreed. Things seem to be circling around 100-120 ppm Cl and 100 ppm SO4 as the sweet spot.
I’ve also seen multiple reports of pale malt not giving what’s desired for this style. Perhaps cut in some MO (or go all MO). Maybe your C20 addition and wheat malt will take care of that, I dunno. The best ones I’ve made have been simply 80% MO 20% flaked oats and acid malt to get me to 5.2 mash pH. Seems there’s a billion ways to do the hops for this style but they all include “lots” of late hops and dry hops.
Mash profile should be in the neighborhood of 80 SO4 and 105 Cl. But when sparging with RO it really diluted those numbers. Not sure why the target numbers reflect the mash profile instead of the finished, into the kettle profile. I could, perhaps, add some salts straight to the boil kettle.
After some quick and dirty guestimating on Brunwater I tossed in an extra gram of Epsom salt, half gram of gypsum and a gram of calcium chloride. Boil was underway and this was in the back of my mind anyway. Thanks for bringing it up.
Update. Beer has been in secondary for 3 days. I racked on top of mangos and my first dry hop charge. Added second dry hop charge today. Gravity is 1.019, 1.070 OG. Bumped temp up a few degrees. Tastes pretty damn good right now. Fingers crossed. Will check on it again this weekend.
I’m not sure if it fits the bill for a NE IPA but this is one hoppy, citrusy, tasty IPA that is way more potent than what I’m accustomed to brewing. Calculating this beer at around 7.8% ABV. Maybe a bit too crushable… after visiting the tap a few times I think the ABV calculations are pretty accurate!
Cheers!
The “NE Haze” in the previous pic was likely just yeast being pulled from the bottom of my keg. I went straight from secondary on fruit/dry hops into the keg, so plenty of “stuff” went in with it. It’s beginning to clear. Not sure what give the NE haze it’s ability to stick around, but it also isn’t something I would intentionally try to do, unless there is a flavor benefit.
You know I’m not really sure. I wish I had some of the same beer without mango, but I didn’t split any off. I’ve not used this recipe before, but I can tell you this beer is very tasty!
