I was cleaning up the other day after a brew session and noticed my GFCI power strip looked a little deformed. This is usually plugged into an outlet on it’s own circuit (washing machine, not running) with just the Foundry and sometimes the recirc pump plugged in. The Foundry is rated to pull 1600 watts at 120v which comes out to 13.3 amps. I suspect the added resistance of the GFCI power strip (and additional power cable length) may be causing the melting. If anyone else is using a GFCI strip for their brewing, you might want to check things out.
I replaced the 6ft cord on the Foundry with 6ft 14 gage after seeing the signs of overheating on the terminals and copper itself but not sure this is the best option. Does the GFCI strip need to go?
For any electricians out there, I don’t always brew plugged into GFCI but the floor is constantly wet so isn’t it better to have the GFCI power strip rather than not? Also, any better ways to solve this and still keep GFCI in the circuit?
I agree with Denny, you want the strip to be rated for amperage passing through it. High amperage is not the same as a ground fault, which would trip the strip off if a ground fault occurs. You want protection from both high current AND a possible ground fault.
NEC (National Electrical Code) states a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt) should be used in any and all wet environments. Also, as the previous contributors mentioned, the GFCI should be rated at the current of the device(s) it serves. That said, I would recommend using a GFCI rated at 20 amps. Also the power cord should also be rated at 20 amps.
Ohms law states Voltage X Amperage = Wattage. So, 1600W / 120V = 13.3333A. Now, if your voltage is less than 120, the amperage goes up.
Looking at your pictures, it seems the connections and the wire itself might be 14ga, or smaller. 14ga. wire inside an appliance is acceptable. However, if the distance between the outlet you’re plugging in to and the appliance is greater than 10-15’ of wire length, I would use a 12ga. power cord. Bigger wire size will never cause a problem. Smaller wire size will always cause a problem — overheat.
Finally, if the GFCI appears distorted, get rid of it.
+1
This is the easiest way to solve your issue. If you’re a DIY person, it’s very easy to do whether it be a GFCI breaker or outlet. Just consult the interweb. One very important point is that you must replace with the same amp rating. 15 amp circuits are wired with 14 gauge cable and 20 amp with 12 gauge. You cannot install a 20 amp GFCI breaker/outlet on 14 gauge cable.
Good reminder. I have 15 amp breakers but the original wiring in the house is all 14/2 BX from the 50s. The outlet in the laundry room is GFCI, but I sometimes brew on the back patio and I think the outlet there 14/2 BX (looks old as crap) so need to figure out what to do with that one.
You can replace the outlet with a 15A GFCI outlet. You don’t need an electrician to do that. Any handyman can do it. If it is outside and exposed to the elements you should add a weatherproof in-use cover, which is also easy to install and doesn’t need an electrician.
Yep, replacing the outlet is pretty straightforward but what’s the story with grounding a circuit using BX? The stuff I have doesn’t have a ground wire in the conduit and heard you’re not supposed to ground an outlet to the box with that scenario. Reason being, during a fault the sheathing can heat up to the point it starts a fire in the walls/ceiling.
If I understand what you’re suggesting, the reality is the only way your scenario is possible is if the circuit breaker starving that BX, Romex, Sealtite, wire, or otherwise, has failed in the closed position. Highly unlikely.
A “fault” in a GFCI is the result of the GFCI sensing the amperage (current) difference (measured in milliamps) between the Hot and Neutral wire. If there is a difference, the device trips because there is current flowing to ground. And, in this scenario, a person could act as a ground.
Using the metal covering of the BX as a ground is not uncommon. You’ll find that condition in many older homes. Some BX I’ve seen does have a bare wire running along with the power wires. That bare wire is in direct contact with the metal covering and can be used as a ground. But you should check your local building code to verify.
Also, a GFCI receptacle will ground itself to the box via the receptacle mounting wings and its fastening screws. This assumes the junction box is metal. Some junction boxes are plastic. In which case, all bets are off.
This is super helpful info. I wasn’t sure the metal covering on BX would have enough conductivity to carry 15A+ long enough for the (15A) breaker to trip and that would be what causes it to heat up/melt. Obviously not the case if it’s commonly used as ground in older stuff.
I do have that thin flat aluminum wire running the length of the BX but was never sure what is was for. I’ve found it wrapped around a screw on the inside of a couple boxes like it’s a ground wire, but it’s so thin I can’t see how that would carry 15A+ either.
Maybe my homeowner’s level understanding of a breaker is wrong. Does a 15A breaker only trip at current above 15 Amps or is it like the GFCI that can sense a fault at much lower amperages? I’ve always wondered.
The function of a circuit breaker is to protect the wire it serves. So, a 14ga. wire/circuit will be protected by a 15A breaker that will trip shortly after it sees 15amps of continuous draw. The function and purpose of a circuit breaker is very different than the function and purpose of a GFCI.
Please realize GFCI’s are not the cure to everything. There are certain cicruits where GFCI’s are true PITA. Example: freezer, sump pump, etc. Why? Normal surge when these things “turn on”. Unfortunately, the GFCI trips and the freezer goes off until one notices.
I understand GFCI’s in the kitchen and bathroom. Other household locations? Trouble.
