+1. I mash a big quad (or similar) sub-150, like 148 or 9, to get the attenuation and drinkability I like. Extra oxygen and ramping up are pretty much mandatory to get 1.100 down to a fairly low number.
I don’t think extra o2 is needed. I have never used o2 and I have had 1.100+ beers finish in the 1.020-1.010 range when all malt and using british yeast and in the 1.010-1.000 range when a healthy dose of simple sugar is added. bringing the temp up though can be quite helpful.
Actually I normally use a mix-stir for most beers, but for 1.090+ beers I’ve always felt that some added O2 was helpful, as compared to not using it. But your results speak for themselves. Definitely agree totally on the added sugar (added incrementally sometimes) helping to attenuate.
This will certainly vary depending on your system, but I never mash below 153 (unless I miss my strike temp by a degree or two) and my big beers attenuate just fine. You just need to make sure you mash long enough. When I target 153 for my mash temp I’m usually in the 147-148 range after 90 minutes. It’s all conjecture, but I feel like the extra few degrees gets better alpha amylase activity early on without denaturing the beta amylase to a great extent. This way as the temp starts to drop the alpha amylase has already done its thing and the beta has more to chew on.
This is why I’ve never used 1968 for a big beer though. That yeast is just a weird bugger. If I really wanted the 1968 flavor in a barleywine I’d pitch and hold it at 68F for a few days, then toss in a couple of packs of US-05 to finish up the job. When I use 1968 it’s usually because I want a beer with a little less attenuation. Obviously it can be done based on everyone else’s results, but I don’t have the time or degree of temp control to want to try that with this strain.
Hey, I missed that! 
I use 002 on a regular basis.
As noted in previous posts, it flocs real easy, and is a real bear to rouse using most homebrewing equipment.
Back in my extract days when I had a stuck ferment, I found the only reliable way to get the beer to finish was to warm it up into the mid 70’s, swirl the carboy to resuspend the yeast and add 1/2 tsp amylase enzyme per 5 gal.
Keep it in the mid 70’s for a couple of weeks.
I know some have some horror stories using amylase but I never did using the 1/2 tsp per 5 gal dose.
I’ve been doing this with 1968 and it’s been working great. I think the key is to ramp up around 3-4 days while there is still yeast in suspension.
I’d also strongly recommend calibrating/checking your thermometer. If you are using one of the typical homebrewing floating thermometer then it’s highly likely it is way, way off. Mine is like 6-8 degrees low around mash temperatures.
All the things said here about this yeast are true. I don’t personally recommend using this yeast for anything above 1.060. It finishes its job and falls out in a pile of goop. Nearly impossible to rouse successfully on a homebrewing scale, although I have. It’s a great yeast for a low gravity beer that you want to finish with some body and maltiness, like a mild, bitter or ESB. On a beer staring at 1.100, finishing at 1.040 is not too bad.
Rousing it was like mixing caramel with a plastic straw. I ended up taking the day off from work, took a trip to my LHBS, and made another starter last night. I’ll check back later next week let you know how things work out.
FWIW, the temp stayed at 153 over the course of mash… but that’s probably in jeopardy given my thermometer accuracy. I usually use 001/007, but given I’ve had this happen before, I think I need to do some serious homework before my next big brew.
Got the FG down 5 pts to 1.035 with the additional yeast and warmer (70) temperature. I’ll take it.