Just bought a used kegorator. It seems to work fine, getting cold inside. The line will need replacing. It is also set up for a sanke keg. I use corny kegs, I don’t see it as a problem changing to corny kegs. I’ll need to replace the beer line and possibly the tap.
I guess I’m looking for tips and recommendations for refurbishing this kegorator. Will it hold two corny kegs? I guess I’ll have to do some measuring. Any help, ideas, or tips are greatly appreciated.
If you have a draft tower, you’ll need a special spanner wrench to get the nut on the inside. If you use a regular wrench it’ll probably strip the nut and you’ll have a very hard time doing it.
This tool is pretty useful…
1 Like
Talk about a perfect example of a “one use” tool that if you have it makes life so much easier. 
1 Like
I built a keger from a chest freezer. The co2 tank should be outside. ( more room inside and the pressure gage will be more accurate). Also the beer lines should be long enough to minimize foaming. Check all gas line connections with soapy water for leaks. Co2 isn’t cheap. Cheers!
1 Like
I built a keezer from a 7 cu ft. freezer. It has worked fine. I only have 3 taps in it using the 5 gallon corny kegs. I do have my CO2 tank inside. If I put it outside, I maybe could add another tap using a smaller keg. Everything seems to be working fine, but if it would be more accurate or work better by attaching it to the outside, I could probably get that done. Are there any other pros or cons concerning the placement of the CO2 tank?
My CO2 keg is outside the freezer as well. One other consideration is the pressure of the CO2. with the tank at a warmer temperature, the pressure in the keg will be somewhat higher.
1 Like
Something I had to do to my new kegarator was installing some small bubble wrap material behind the chiller plate in the back. Whenever the compressor engaged there would be a LOUD popping sound.
Liquid line: I coil it up over the top of the keg which significantly reduces foam. I’m using 6’ line for both liquid and gas. I use a 15’ line for my seltzer water keg because of the 30lbs of pressure. Also for the liquid line I wrapped the last two feet(going up into the tower) in a metal coil which transfers the cold up into the tower. I used a 1/2" wooden dowel to coil the wire. Some people install a fan to blow cold air up into the tower but I don’t want more noise nor the electrical bill. To help with foaming just pull 1" into a glass, that’ll get the faucet chilled then you can get a good pour. I’ve even sprayed the faucet with a can of compressed air to chill it first.
Tower bolts: mine are so long they stick way down almost to the top of the keg. I’ve cut the top of my hand several times. I used some rubber bushings. Replace them with shorter ones if needed or you could cut them as well.
Defrosting … mine pees on the floor if there’s a lot of ice build up but it’s in a basement and I just keep a rag on the floor.
If you think it can hold a 15.5 keg then it’ll prolly hold 3 cornys.
The Sanke tap will come in handy if you want to throw a keg of Bud in there. The ball taps for the corny keg are inexpensive, get an extra set. I was kegging one day and the pippet failed, luckily my LHBS was a mile away(since closed in Nov. 2024) and got a replacement.
If it didn’t come with stickers all over the door and stuff then you’ll need to get some cool ones to put on it, don’t let your kegerator be naked.
Best of Luck
1 Like