I’ve been using this system for years. Today, when I hit the power switch, the PLC is stuck on the loading screen, frozen if you will. Makes the system unusable. Has anyone ran into this, and how did you fix? Also, I have been unable to find a user manual on-line. Sabco is now out of business. Can someone post the user manual?
Ouch, not a good sign. They use a PLC made by Unitronics. Often it has proprietary software loaded on it. If it has failed, you may need to replace the entire PLC by retrofitting a different one from a different manufacturer. Most inputs and outputs are fairly standard, but if you can’t get it fire up, you may need to swap it out. Not an easy task, but it can be done. Once you put a generic PLC on it you won’t be a slave to proprietary software without support.
The PLC might be OK, it’s clearly trying to boot up, but after 30 seconds goes to a clear screen and starts over, so I’m hoping it might be a SW error. or possibly one of the I/O isn’t passing some sort of self-test at startup. It has a 2G microSD card, and I’m wondering if the SW is loaded on the card. If so, I’m hoping that someone can DL the SW so that I can reload onto the SD card. Anyone?
Br.Mg v350ms Ops.Manl1209.pdf (2.9 MB)
Troubleshoot Guide V.05.12.pdf (97.7 KB)
Frustrating, especially with Sabco gone. A PLC frozen on the loading screen after years of service often points to either a dying backup battery on the controller board or corrupted firmware/memory, sometimes a bad power supply not delivering clean voltage on boot. First thing worth trying is a full power-down, unplug for a few minutes to force a cold reset, and check the PLC’s battery if it has one. If it’s a common PLC brand like an Automation Direct or similar, the model number on the unit might get you a generic manual even without Sabco. For the Brew Magic manual, other owners here may have a scanned copy, what does the PLC unit itself say brand-wise? That’s your best repair lead.
Have you tried the re-calibration path? Hold your your finger on the touch screen for about 5 seconds and it should bring up the “Info Mode” on the screen. Then enter the “Calibrate Touchscreen” on each of the five lower buttons that appear on the screen to see if that will fix the problem. Then press “escape” to get you out of the 'Info Mode".
I just acquired a used Brew-Magic and am learning all of the idiosyncrasies of the system. Unfortunately the manual I have does not have a trouble shooting section. Also if your battery is shot, this might be contributing to your problem. You can get a new battery for the Unitronics V350 controller from Radwell.com. You can also get a new controller from them but they are a bit pricey and maybe the SD card will fit it, but I am not 100% sure on this.
Hope this provides some help.
Thanks! Appreciate the help.
I replaced the battery, unfortunately same issue. However, I wacked the edge of the Unitronics screen and it started working. Since I “wiggled” all of the connectors I could find, tugged on wires to make sure they were secure, and unplugged/plugged back in the Unitronics connectors in the course of removing and reinstalling it in order to replace the battery (and visually inspect the PCBs), I now think there must be a cold solder joint somewhere on one of the Unitronics PCBs (there are 2).
Thoughts?
You might be right with a cold solder joint.
Someone replied to your post.
| mkecollins
August 10 |
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I replaced the battery, unfortunately same issue. However, I wacked the edge of the Unitronics screen and it started working. Since I “wiggled” all of the connectors I could find, tugged on wires to make sure they were secure, and unplugged/plugged back in the Unitronics connectors in the course of removing and reinstalling it in order to replace the battery (and visually inspect the PCBs), I now think there must be a cold solder joint somewhere on one of the Unitronics PCBs (there are 2).
Thoughts?
Following up on the email reply I sent. Yes, it could be a cold solder joint. It could also be that some of the wire connections may have gotten a bit corroded or oxidized from the environment and reseating them could cure the problem. I have experienced this with the wiring for my antennas in my ham radio station and either cleaning the connections or reseating them usually fixes the problem. Wiggling the wires, as you have done, might accomplish this but reseating them is a better fix (if you are able to do this in the fairly cramped control box).