Any harm in sanitizing the fermenter and then using it to store post-boil top-off water for a couple days? I’d leave the lid on of course, and probably put a santized airloc in as well just to keep stuff out.
Why? I’m trying to understand a process where you would need to “top off” after the boil and if that process exists, why you would need to store that water in your fermenter?
I know BeerSmith software allows for “top off” — and I have read several posts on the BS Forum about it — but if the Equipment Profile is correct, there should be no need to top off after the boil. Further, I would be nervous adding additional water to my fermenter that has not been boiled first.
If additional water is needed for some reason, why not add it before the boil so that water can get sanitized?
Many extract brewers do a partial boil, then top off to get their full volume. If you’re a stove top brewer, then that’s probably the only way to brew a 5 gallon batch.
To the OP, you can probably store the top off water in the fermenter and be fine if you sanitized it first, but make sure it is sealed tight so no bacteria can get in. Water has no antibacterial properties to prevent bugs from growing the way beer does.
When I was brewing partial-boil extract, I would store my topoff water in the fridge to help chill my wort down to pitching temps more quickly.
Very interesting! The only extract brewing I did was Mr. Beer about 100 years ago and now that you mention it, I recall doing something similar.
yeah, it’s an unfortunate trade off for extract brewing in a 5 gallon pot, as erockrph stated. I should just pre-order the Foundry but I’m not so sure I’ll have the time for the hobby so starting out cheap to see where I can fit it all in. I don’t usually have much space in the fridge so not sure that would work for me. I’m thinking I’ll spray the fermenter and lid down with star san then just dump the water in? Might make sense to try and chill the pot in the sink for a bit. I have an HDPE fermenter so need to look up the temperature limit on that first. I have a hunch I’m going to end up making a lot more work for myself trying to do this on the cheap. I’ve never been a big fan of shortcuts for stuff that creates a lot of extra work and hassle but that’s the tradeoff for starting cheap.
Its not just extract brewers who do partial boils. The first few years I did AG I did partial boils, too.
I only made a handful of 5 gallon batches when I started. I made the switch to 3 gallon full boil batches, and then moved to BIAB and No Sparge all grain 3-gallon batches anfew months later. There are many ways to brew, and you can make enjoyable beer with all of them.
I love the no sparge idea. I’ve read that you loose a little bit of efficiency but it can be made up for with a little more grain in the bill (like $1 worth). Is that true? I’m guessing when you full mash boil, you’re not using a recipe kit anymore.
You can compensate for the efficiency losses by adding additional base malt (generally). You can also combine various parts of different processes to get a bit more sugar out of your bag. I’ll leave those details to the folks you use BIAB since I don’t.
All grain brewers have the option to go completely off the map with beers if they choose to. There are also all grain kits available but I personally don’t buy them. I just build my recipes from grain/hop stores I’ve bought in bulk. Extract brewers aren’t limited to kits either really. You can order and combine LME, DME, hops and such as you choose.
One of the best facets of this hobby is you can make it what you want to make it. Your limits are only in place because you choose to accept them.
Paul
You don’t necessarily lose that much efficiency. I would hit 80% when I was squeezing my grain bag, and I’m getting in the upper 70’s with my new Foundry.
As far as recipes go, I started by using recipes from Brewing Classic Styles and using brewing software like Brewer’s Friend to convert them to 3 gallon recipes. Once I got a handle on ingredients I started writing my own recipes. So while the end point may seem daunting for a beginner, you can get there in small steps.
When I was doing extract batches and topping off, I used gallons of spring water for the top off and would keep them in the fridge. Since I also didn’t have an immersion chiller (I chilled in the sink with ice and water), I basically just got the wort to “I can touch it without it hurting” temperature, then I would pour it into the carboy – a 6.5 gal glass carboy was the first “expensive” piece of equipment I bought – at which point I would top up. That cold water would help a lot at getting to pitching temp. The difference between 115 degree wort and 70 degree wort is an eon in sink chilling time.
That’s a very interesting quote! Thinking about brewing in that context, I could not agree with you more!
[emoji106]
Very true in fact, but financial considerations and spousal harmony are factors that you shouldn’t overlook in the equation! Cheers to tolerant spouses and healthy bankrolls!
Well said, ynotbrusum! A happy wife is a happy life? :
I agree with everyone about making decisions that are within your means and keep SWMBO happy.
The conversation was about recipe development and what system you may want to use. I wasn’t trying to recommend blowing the mortgage payments on upgrades. :o 8)
Gotcha. Keep it all in perspective, but it’s a great hobby that just needs the right life prioritization to fully enjoy it to your max…