I iodaphor everything once a year. I dont know why
I’ll have to pick some up and try it then, if only for occasional use till I finish my giant bottle of star san.
I use both, but any more I use PBW for a reasonable soak for most of my vessels (not aluminum) then rinse well and immediately use alternating batches of Iodophor and Star San (not both on one sanitizing pass) to try to stay a step ahead of any bugs. I have become much more conscious about covering “sanitized” vessels with lids, caps, or even a paper towel, foil or plastic wrap while waiting to rack or while racking. The alternating approach seems to give exposure to the simplest, yet widest reach of commercially available, “just add to water” sanitizers.
Wasn’t he one of the guys in Milli Vanilli?
I hear you on that concern. It is the reason why I too quit using iodophor for a number of years. I grew tired of repainting the wall area near our laundry sink. I used to use the 25ppm solution, and iodophor stains anything porous fairly quickly at that concentration. I have switched to using the 12.5ppm solution this time around, so far, so good. The 12.5ppm solution does not stain anywhere near as quickly as the 25ppm solution.
Only time will tell if I go back to the equivalent of 1 fl. oz. of 5% bleach (scale this quantity by multiplying 1 by 5 divided by the actual percentage of sodium hypochlorite printed on the container) and 1 fl. oz of vinegar mixed into 5 gallons of water. It’s so darn cheap and convenient. I am also thinking about toying around with home-brewed paracetic acid, which is made by mixing hydrogen peroxide with vinegar.
Sounds like you’re toying with a poor man’s piranha solution. As a research chemist, I can attest to the cleansing/carbon breakdown action of such a solution, as long as it’s organic in nature. Please be careful with this and keep it away from any pure organic solvent - particularly halogenated organic solvents. Adding a highly oxidizing acid to a halogenated organic solvent is called the duck reaction as you better duck under the lab bench if the two come in contact. This might not be such a concern with peracetic acid though since acetic acid is a fairly weak acid compared to sulfuric which is used with hydrogen peroxide in true piranha solution. Interestingly, piranha solution really doesn’t do much for inorganics. For that we use aqua regia (1:3 by volume conc. nitric acid : conc. hydrochloric acid) which will dissolve a gold ring quite quickly if you left it for a soak. 
A compound with the formula H2O2 has to be respected. 
Sheesh! Careful out there folks. We’re just trying to make beer here! :P Sincerely, “don’t try this at home” has never been truer! 
Yes, none of us wants to be the star of an episode of “What Could Possibly Go Wrong?”
+1
It’s the reason we inert our drywells in the Nuclear Industry.
Does this result in a “no rinse” solution?
2 scientists walk into a bar. The first one says “I’ll have H2O”. The second one says “I’ll have H2O too”. He dies.
;D Awesome, Denny.
HEY-O!!
During our first date, my (now) wife learned that I was a chemist and she told me this joke on the second date. It’s a classic.
Yes, the solution is no rinse.
Thanks…
This is a fantastic sanitizer as lowering the pH of the dilute bleach solution with acetic acid shifts the equilibrium to favor hypochlorous acid (HOCl) instead of the hypochlorous anion (-OCl). Hypochlorous acid is far, far, far more effective in sanitation than hypochlorous anion.
Just don’t be stupid and add bleach directly to vinegar or you will get blown away by a puff of chlorine gas. At best you’ll be left with stinging eyes and a headache. At worst you could die if a large enough volume was mixed in a poorly ventilated area. In a very dilute solution as Mark describes, it is a perfectly safe sanitizing mixture. Just add the bleach to the water first, then add the vinegar.