Calced all my stuff yesterday, and only one thermometer was correct, and it’s my floater which takes 3 weeks to get a temp. Bought one digital that had to be sent back because it wouldnt calibrate, and my metal therm was off 3 degrees. Hydrometer read 1.003 at 60f in tapwater. Not surprising considering they came in my original kit, and none of that was really quality stuff.
It has a waterproof probe and has been working flawlessly for over 5 years. They are prohibitively expensive new, but if you watch ebay, they come up once in a while and you should be able to get it for somewhere between $30 and $50. If mine ever stopped working, I’d get another without question.
As far as hydrometers go, I was super bummed when I broke my Brewers Edge Precision hydrometer from Williams Brewing. Make sure you look for the word “Precision” because the one without that word doesn’t look all that great. They were out of stock up until recently, but I just checked and you can now order them again. I’m going to order my replacement now.
It has a waterproof probe and has been working flawlessly for over 5 years. They are prohibitively expensive new, but if you watch ebay, they come up once in a while and you should be able to get it for somewhere between $30 and $50. If mine ever stopped working, I’d get another without question.
As far as hydrometers go, I was super bummed when I broke my Brewers Edge Precision hydrometer from Williams Brewing. Make sure you look for the word “Precision” because the one without that word doesn’t look all that great. They were out of stock up until recently, but I just checked and you can now order them again. I’m going to order my replacement now.
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I do a one-point cal during the boil. My mash thermometer usually comes out at ~214-215F.
See if your LHBS has a calibrated water bath or something. If not, a REALLY crude alternative is to get a few of the same thermometers off the shelf and stick them in the same water. See if yours comes out somewhere in the middle.
Not scientific AT ALL, but it may give you some piece of mind.
Keep in mind that measuring to 1 deg F at such a wide range is a pretty hefty feat for any instrument, especially without regular calibration. If you can nail down a reasonable offset that’s fairly consistent (i.e. adding 2-3F to your reading), you’re still doing ok. Just keep watching for drift.
I’m willing to bet you don’t mash at 32F! I’ve found that using a freezing/boiling “calibration” can leave you way off the mark at mash temps. I got a calibrated lab reference thermometer and use it to calibrate my brewing thermometers at 150F.
[quote]I’m willing to bet you don’t mash at 32F! I’ve found that using a freezing/boiling “calibration” can leave you way off the mark at mash temps. I got a calibrated lab reference thermometer and use it to calibrate my brewing thermometers at 150F.
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Thats a safe bet, no doubt. Where did you get the lab reference thermometer?
[quote]I bough it at William’s Brewing many years ago. I don’t think they still carry them, but there are scientific supply places that do have them.
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Thanks Denny, I’ll google it and see what turns up
Thats a safe bet, no doubt. Where did you get the lab reference thermometer?
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Just know for a calibrated traceable reference thermometer from a scientific supplier, such as VWR or sigma, expect to pay alot. I had to order 3 for where I work and the total was somewhere in the $500 and above range.
Just know for a calibrated traceable reference thermometer from a scientific supplier, such as VWR or sigma, expect to pay alot. I had to order 3 for where I work and the total was somewhere in the $500 and above range.
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check that link, they are about 7 bucks each. I might just have to get me one. it doesn’t say traceable but they are NIST certified.
Here’s the link to the ones I use at work, VWR® Individually Calibrated Liquid-In-Glass Thermometer | VWR. None of them are cheap, especially not $7, but for home brewing you don’t need something that accurate, just don’t look to get it from a reputable science ware supplier.
Although not scientifically sound methodology, I have found that after a while you learn to build the calibration into your process…
HLT…about right.
Mash Tun… a little high
Hydrometer…a little low
I know, it’s not precise but I make adjustments relative to their readings, and the beer comes out great.
I know, if I ever have to replace one of them I have to start over.
I use a Thermapen. They’re calibrated and traceable to NIST standards. They come with test data and a CofC. Well worth the money IMO. Plus they’re super fast reading…I think it’s a 2-3 second reading.
I bought this thermometer and thought my RANCOs were 7F off. I did an ice bath test (correctly, see the thermapen website) and found it was 3 deg high at 35F. complained to Cynmar and was immediately shipped a new one. Unfortunately it was worse at just over 35F and the boiling points were 221 and 224 respectively. So much for NIST certification. I payed for the Thermapen and have been pleased with the results. The ice bath wavers between 32 and 32.1F. I can live with that…