My question is "is it enough to make a difference? " I’ll see
I get the sense that we’re seeing a lot more homebrewers adopting parts of LODO mashing since others are reporting good results with a stepwise approach to implementation. If you can adopt the parts of the LODO mashing process that easily fit in your brewing methods and still see some benefits, then why not give it a try? I definitely got the vibe that it was pretty much an all-or-nothing thing when LODO was first starting to trickle out into the homebrew forums that I frequented, but recent reports (and my own experience) seem to say otherwise.
I for one have never tried deaerating my mash water, but yeast scavenging seems like a simple addition to my process. Since I’m hearing good results from others, it’s a no-brainer to at least try it out on my next few brews.
This is a good way to take things, I think. Of all the places to insist on absolutism, beer is a funny one given the endless ways that beer happens. 
not sure if its considered a LODO thing or just a general beer thing, but spunding has been a game changer for me.
I can report that using a deaeration method other than SMB or KMB for your water batch is a good idea. Preboiling, yeast scavenging, and other methods means that you end up adding less of prophylactic protectors like ascorbic acid, SMB, or KMB.
When I calculated the stoichiometric requirements to remove the roughly 8 mg/l of oxygen that can be present in typical tap water, it ended up being the largest component when it came to calculating a SMB dose. If that’s been taken out via one of those other methods, the amount of SMB need to provide that prophylactic function, falls markedly.
I’ve said this before, LODO is NOT suited for all styles. But it does make a very substantial difference in beer styles that benefit from having a strong, unoxidized malt presentation. I don’t find it useful for brewing styles that have oxidized malt as a hallmark. Barleywines, Old Ales, and many English styles just don’t respond well to LODO.
Thank you, Martin. That was exactly the point I was trying to make, but you said it better and more quantitatively.
why do you think so and how so?
Where do you guys buy your Brew Tan B?
Great Fermentations
Also from Great Fermentations.
My LHBS carries it in small containers. I have also bought it through Williams Brewing:
Cheers!
The data supporting use of BTB in the mash is suspect. (Great as a fining.)
Stick to SMB (and AA.)
Their own data is very odd with LOX having activity at high temperatures, when it should denature above 67C.
BR03 Brewtan B - Mashing fact sheet v4.0 - Natural Specialities https://www.natural-specialities.com/download-zone-01/download-file.html?path=Applications+leaflets%2FBR03+Brewtan+B+-+Mashing+fact+sheet+v4.0.pdf
“It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts.” - Sherlock Holmes (A. Conan Doyle)
Thanks, but I judge by how it works for me.
For me, it is extremely useful as a chelating agent. My well water at home is a great blank slate for brewing, except for a fair amount of iron and manganese. Gallotannin has been the biggest single improvement in the quality of my beers that I have made in the past 10 years.
What is the consensus on SMB vs PMB?
Yes, it’s a great chelating agent indeed.
“It is a capital mistake to theorize before one has data. Insensibly one begins to twist facts to suit theories, instead of theories to suit facts.” - Sherlock Holmes (A. Conan Doyle)
I will say the LODO sensibilities made a difference for me. It made me start using my HERMS that I quit using. Made my brewery better by removing the ton of copper I had. Am I a LODO brewer? No I’m not, but it did change the things that needed changing. The sugar/yeast gig is getting used the next time I brew. I’m also an advocate for BTB. It also made me more O2 conscious when packaging as well. I remember not believing Amanda about purging kegs. She had good info back then. I don’t get to brew that often. 20g batches keep me running. Split yeasts and it isn’t the same beer. It really didn’t slow my day up that much. Setup, brew, cleanup, and coverup is an 8-10 hr day anyway. Kind of got me liking brewing more. 
+1
I like to purge kegs with fermentation CO2, closed transfer, keep the beer dark and cold, and drink fresh.
I’m sitting here thinking about the many methods to reduce/eliminate DO and I had an idea come to mind. I’m almost certain that someone else thought of this, tried it then determined the results were a big fat zero.
For any of you who work in construction, specifically concrete, there are times when the concrete has to be vibrated to remove air pockets for various reasons.
Is it possible to vibrate the water to remove the DO? Of course it is. Will it work? I don’t know but I am going to try. Any engineers out there have an opinion?
The question would be - do you pick up any O2 at the surface while vibrating. I would think you do.
As for other oxygen issues, I’ve always advocated that doing a full CO2 purge (sanitizer and push out) is one of the best things you can do for your beer. (assuming you’ve got your sanitation and fermentation mechanics down pat)